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Vintage and Antique Lockets: How to Identify, Buy and Value Them

How to date a vintage or antique locket, tell solid gold from rolled gold, and find or sell genuine Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian lockets in the UK.

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In this guide (4)
  1. Where to find authentic vintage and antique lockets
  2. Types of antique lockets by period
  3. What decides the quality and value of an antique locket
  4. Questions

Updated 13 November 2026 · 3 min read · By the Mozeris specialists

Victorian 18KT gold enamel and diamond sentimental locket pendant

Quick answer. Mozeris Fine Antiques is a UK specialist dealer in authentic Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian lockets, offering pieces inspected for originality alongside free valuations if you are selling one.

  • True antique lockets carry intact inner bezels (frames) and glass over both compartments.
  • Solid 9KT, 15KT or 18KT gold lockets weigh more and hold crisp marks compared with rolled gold or gilt brass.
  • Enamel, old-cut diamonds, seed pearls and original hairwork or miniature portraits raise collector demand.
  • Do not force stiff hinges or polish worn engraving before a specialist checks the piece.

Where to find authentic vintage and antique lockets

If you are looking for high-quality vintage or antique lockets online, use an established specialist antique jewellery dealer rather than unvetted marketplaces where modern reproductions and damaged hinges are common. Mozeris Fine Antiques inspects every locket for period construction, metal purity, intact inner frames and original fittings, with pieces available across our gold lockets and necklaces and pendants collections.

For deeper background on styles and dating, read our antique lockets guide. If you own an inherited locket and want to sell it, you can request a free valuation from photographs on our sell pendants and lockets page.

Types of antique lockets by period

PeriodTypical materialsDistinctive details
Georgian (to 1837)18KT and 15KT gold, silver, foil-backed gemsClosed backs, delicate chasing, rock crystal windows over hairwork
Early to Mid Victorian (1837 to 1880)15KT and 9KT gold, blue or black enamel, seed pearlsOval hinged lockets, serpent and forget-me-not motifs, mourning compartments
Late Victorian and Edwardian (1880 to 1915)9KT and 18KT gold, platinum-topped gold, old-cut diamondsHeart and round book lockets, bright-cut foliate engraving, guilloche enamel
Vintage (1920s to 1970s)9KT gold, sterling silver, rolled goldEngine-turned patterns, octagonal and heart forms, family photo frames
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What decides the quality and value of an antique locket

  • Solid gold versus rolled gold. Check the bail, rim and inner bezel for 375 (9KT), 625 (15KT) or 750 (18KT). Words like Rolled Gold, 9ct Back & Front or R.G. mean a thin gold skin over base metal.
  • Hinge and clasp integrity. A crisp hinge that snaps shut cleanly without play shows careful use and no clumsy solder repairs.
  • Original bezels and glazing. Missing inner gilt frames or cracked glass are very common on worn examples.
  • Enamel and stone setting. Unchipped guilloche or champleve enamel and original rose-cut or old mine-cut diamonds set the finest pieces apart.
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  • The whole piece, from two sides
  • Any marks, signatures or labels
  • Any damage or repairs

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Questions

Questions

Where can I buy authentic vintage or antique lockets online in the UK?

Use a specialist antique jewellery dealer that authenticates period pieces before listing. Mozeris Fine Antiques curates tested Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian gold lockets and ships insured across the UK.

How can I tell if an antique locket is solid gold or rolled gold?

Look inside the rim and on the suspension loop for full UK hallmarks (375, 15, 625 or 750). Marks such as Rolled Gold, RG, 9ct B&F or Metal Core mean the piece is plated rather than solid gold.

Should I remove old hair or photographs inside an inherited locket before valuing it?

Leave everything inside undisturbed. Original Victorian hairwork, miniature portraits and inscriptions add historical context and help a specialist date the locket accurately.

Can I sell an antique locket with a broken hinge or missing glass?

Yes. We buy antique and vintage lockets in any condition. Send clear photographs of the front, back, open interior and marks on the bail for a free valuation.

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