Vintage and Antique Necklaces and Pendants

Antique and vintage necklaces

This page brings together necklaces, pendants, lockets and chains from the Georgian period to the 1970s. Each listing gives the metal, the stones, the length or measurements and photographs from several angles. Several pieces convert: a brooch pendant can be worn either way, and some necklaces divide into a bracelet and a shorter necklace.

Georgian and Victorian necklaces

Georgian necklaces are set with closed-back stones, natural pearls and paste. Victorian necklaces include fringe designs, where graduated drops hang from the chain, rivières of single stones, and turquoise and pearl pieces. Italian micromosaic, pictures built from tiny pieces of glass, appears in 19th century lockets and pendants in high-carat gold.

Edwardian, Art Nouveau and Art Deco

Platinum made Edwardian settings light and open, with diamonds and natural pearls in garlands and pendants on fine chains. Art Nouveau jewellers used plique-à-jour enamel, which has no backing so light shows through it like stained glass. Art Deco pendants of the 1920s and 1930s are geometric, in platinum with diamonds, onyx and enamel.

Lockets, crosses and sentimental pieces

Lockets held hair, portraits or photographs and were given as tokens of love or remembrance. Victorian lockets in gold and enamel, crosses in gold and silver, and religious pendants are among them.

Albert chains

An Albert is a watch chain, named after Prince Albert, with a T-bar at one end to fix it through a waistcoat buttonhole. Today Albert chains are often worn as necklaces or bracelets. Each listing gives the length, the metal and the hallmarks, which usually date the chain to the year.

Vintage diamond necklaces and pendants

Among the vintage and later pieces are diamond line necklaces, diamond cluster necklaces, and pendants set with diamonds, topaz, citrine and opal. Signed pieces by houses such as Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Buccellati, Ilias Lalaounis and Mikimoto are named as such on their listings.

Pearl necklaces

Natural pearls form without human help and were the only pearls before cultured pearls became widely available in the 1920s, so Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian pearls are natural. Later pieces use cultured pearls, including South Sea pearls, white to golden, and Tahitian pearls, which are dark. Each listing states which type the piece has.

Necklace lengths

Necklace lengths have traditional names. A choker sits at the base of the neck, at about 35 to 40 cm; a princess length falls to the collarbone at about 43 to 48 cm; a matinee length reaches 50 to 60 cm; an opera length runs to about 70 to 90 cm; and a sautoir is longer still, often finished with a tassel. Each listing gives the length, so you can compare it with a necklace you already wear.

Chains and rivières

Gold chains are named by their links: belcher, curb, trace, rope and box chains are the common types, and the listing names the link. A rivière is a necklace of single stones, usually diamonds, set one after another in a continuous line, often graduated in size towards the front.

Clasps

The clasp helps date a necklace. Georgian and Victorian necklaces close with box clasps, a tongue that springs into a box, or with hooks. The spring ring clasp was in use by the early 20th century, and the lobster clasp became common from the mid-century. Each listing describes the clasp.

Reading the metal

British gold carries a fineness mark: 18 or 750 for 18KT, 15 for 15KT, 14 or 585 for 14KT and 9 or 375 for 9KT. 15KT was a legal British standard only from 1854 to 1932, so a 15KT mark dates a piece to that window on its own. Platinum was not hallmarked in Britain until 1975, so earlier platinum is often unmarked or stamped PLAT. The metal of every piece is stated on its listing.

Seeing a piece in person

You can view any piece by appointment at 47 Maddox Street, Mayfair, London W1S 2PG, or at our office at Unit 20B Lakes Industrial Park, Braintree, Essex CM7 3RU. If you cannot visit, ask for more photographs or a video of the piece.