How to clean jewellery safely: the basics
Most fine jewellery needs only warm water, a little mild washing-up liquid and a soft toothbrush. What changes is how much water and agitation each material can take (GIA).
- Check what it is
Identify the metal and the stones first: some gems and settings must not get wet.
- Soak briefly
Warm, not hot, soapy water for a few minutes, only for pieces that can take it.
- Brush gently
A soft toothbrush behind the stones, where grease and soap collect.
- Rinse in a bowl
Never over an open drain.
- Dry at once
A lint-free cloth, then leave to air dry fully before storing.
| Material | Soapy water | Ultrasonic or steam |
|---|---|---|
| Diamond, ruby, sapphire (no fractures or fillings) | Yes | Yes |
| Emerald | Briefly, lukewarm | No (emerald guide) |
| Opal, pearl, turquoise, coral, amber | Wipe only | No |
| Glass-filled ruby, fracture-filled diamond | Briefly | No |
| Marcasite, costume, foil-backed settings | No: dry or barely damp cloth | No |
Diamond rings in stock
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David Morris 18KT Gold Heart Diamond and Baguette Bow Ring, 1.70 ct£7,300
Theo Fennell 18KT Gold Pear and Round Diamond Three-Stone Ring£6,780
Platinum Old Cut Diamond Bombé Cluster Ring, 2.00 ct£4,650
18KT Gold Carved Labradorite Satyr Ring with Diamond Eyes£9,850
Antique 14KT Gold Rose Cut Diamond Gypsy Ring, 0.50 ct£1,650
Antique 18KT Gold Garnet and Diamond Twin Head Snake Ring£1,850
Graff 18KT Gold Baguette and Brilliant Cut Diamond Crossover Ring, 1.00 ct£4,950
18KT Gold Cabochon Ruby and Diamond Woven Bombé Ring£4,300
Platinum, white gold and high-carat gold

Platinum
Platinum does not tarnish. It gains a soft patina of fine scratches, which a jeweller can polish away. Clean it like a diamond ring (caring for your engagement ring).
Not sure if yours is platinum? See platinum or white gold.

22KT gold
High-carat gold is soft. Wash it in mild soapy water, dry it with a soft cloth, and never use abrasive cloths or toothpaste. Our Victorian 22KT gold bracelet of 1899 shows the rich colour careful cleaning keeps.
For signed pieces, see caring for designer gold jewellery.
Antique and vintage jewellery

Less is more
Antique pieces often combine soft stones, enamel, old glue and fragile settings. A soft dry brush is usually enough. Never wet a Georgian closed-back setting: water ruins the foil behind the stones (ruby guide).
Polishing wheels and dips remove patina and can wear away hallmarks, which date a piece.
- Storage: separate soft pouches; silver with anti-tarnish strips; pearls in fabric, not plastic.
- Restringing: pearl and bead necklaces should be restrung when the silk stretches or discolours.
- Check claws: have settings checked by a jeweller every year or two.
Victorian jewellery in stock
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19th Century 18KT Gold Carved Amethyst Cameo Ring, Bearded Classical Head£15,950
19th Century 10KT Rose Gold Amethyst Intaglio Ring of Helios in a Quadriga£14,950
Victorian 9KT Gold and Silver Wasp Brooch, Peridot, Amethyst, Ruby and Diamonds£4,985
18KT Gold Carved Labradorite Satyr Ring with Diamond Eyes£9,850
Antique 14KT Gold Rose Cut Diamond Gypsy Ring, 0.50 ct£1,650
Victorian 18KT Gold Rose Cut Diamond Hinged Bangle£3,645
Victorian 9KT Gold Albert Chain Bracelet with Bloodstone and Carnelian Swivel Fob£2,350
Antique 9KT Gold Enamel Miniature, Pearl and Diamond Brooch, H. N. v. Santen, Boxed£5,400
Marcasite and costume jewellery
Marcasite is pyrite set or glued in silver (marcasite jewellery); costume jewellery is plated base metal with glued stones (is my costume jewellery real?). Neither should be soaked. Use a dry brush on stones, a silver cloth on silver, and a barely damp cloth on plated metal, then dry at once.
Before you sell or value a piece
Do not clean or polish antique jewellery before it is valued: dirt is harmless, but over-cleaning can remove patina and hallmark detail that help date and value a piece.
Send us photos of your jewellery as it is, and we will tell you what it is worth, free and with no obligation. Request a free valuation.
- Sell antique jewellery
- Appointments are available at our Mayfair and Braintree offices.
