Antique and Vintage Brooches

Antique and vintage brooches

A brooch (in the US, a pin) was the most worn piece of jewellery for most of the 19th century, and many antique brooches were made to convert: several have a fitting so they can also be worn as a pendant. Each listing gives the metal, the stones, the measurements and photographs from several angles.

Victorian brooches

Victorian diamond brooches are set in silver over gold, the silver keeping the stones white: ribbon bows, stars, crescents and flower sprays of old cut diamonds. En tremblant brooches have flowers mounted on fine springs, so they tremble and catch the light as the wearer moves. Victorian jewellers also used carved and coloured stones: shell and hardstone cameos, opal, turquoise and lapis lazuli.

Edwardian and Art Nouveau brooches

From about 1900 platinum allowed lighter, lace-like settings in garlands, bows and horseshoes. Art Nouveau jewellers favoured natural forms and enamel, and Essex crystals, rock crystal carved from the back and painted, show sporting and animal subjects.

Art Deco brooches

Art Deco brooches of the 1920s and 1930s are platinum and geometric: bar brooches, plaques, bows and bouquets set with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds. A double clip brooch is two clips that fit together into one brooch or can be worn apart, a form introduced in the 1930s.

Vintage brooches

Vintage brooches from the 1940s onwards favour flowers and animals: diamond floral sprays, giardinetto (Italian for "little garden") flower baskets of mixed gems, insects, birds and gold animals set with pearls and coloured stones.

Diamond and pearl brooches

Antique diamond brooches use old mine and old European cut diamonds, cut by hand, which give broad flashes of light. Pearl brooches run from Victorian natural pearl clusters to vintage pieces with cultured and South Sea pearls; each listing states the type.

Cameo brooches

A cameo is carved in relief, with the design standing out from its background. Shell cameos were carved in Italy, many at Torre del Greco near Naples, from layered helmet and conch shell, which gives a pale figure against a darker ground. Hardstone cameos are carved from agate, onyx or carnelian. Victorian cameo brooches are usually framed in gold, sometimes with a pendant loop.

Mourning and sentimental brooches

After Prince Albert died in 1861, Queen Victoria wore mourning for the rest of her life and mourning jewellery became widespread. Mourning brooches are made of Whitby jet, black enamel and onyx, often with a compartment at the back for a lock of hair. Sentimental brooches carry initials, forget-me-nots or hearts.

Signed jewellers and stick pins

Signed brooches name the maker on their listings, with pieces by makers such as Carlo Giuliano, Fabergé, Tiffany & Co., Mikimoto and John Donald. Stick pins were worn in a cravat or tie from the 19th century into the early 20th, with enamel, gem-set and figural heads.

Reading the metal

Victorian brooches are mostly silver over gold, or 9KT, 12KT, 15KT or 18KT gold. 12KT and 15KT were British standards from 1854 until 1932, and smaller Victorian brooches often carry no hallmark at all, because pieces under a certain weight were exempt. Platinum was not hallmarked in Britain until 1975, so Edwardian and Art Deco platinum brooches are often unmarked or stamped PLAT.

Fittings

Most 19th century brooches close with a simple C-shaped catch, and the pin often runs past the edge of the brooch. Safety catches that lock were added in the early 20th century, and many antique brooches have had one fitted since. The listing describes the fitting of each brooch.

Seeing a brooch in person

You can view any brooch by appointment at 47 Maddox Street, Mayfair, London W1S 2PG, or at our office at Unit 20B Lakes Industrial Park, Braintree, Essex CM7 3RU. If you cannot visit, ask for more photographs or a video of the piece.