Jewellery · Rings
Antique & Vintage Signet Rings
Signet rings were made to seal: a crest, coat of arms or monogram cut into the face of the ring and pressed into hot wax to mark a letter or document as genuine. The rings below are original antique and vintage signets in gold, from engraved heraldic signets to rings set with a carved hardstone intaglio. Every listing gives the ring size in UK, US and EU sizes, the weight, the measurements of the head and the hallmarks.
- Every piece described with measurements, weight and marks
- Shipped fully insured, or view in person by appointment
Signet rings in stock now
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Engraved signets and intaglio signets
There are two kinds of signet. An engraved signet has the design cut straight into the gold face of the ring. An intaglio signet has a flat hardstone set into the head, usually carnelian, bloodstone, sardonyx or onyx, with the design carved into the stone. In both, the design is cut in reverse so that it reads the right way round once it is pressed into wax.
Shapes, weights and sizes
Signet heads are most often oval, cushion, oblong or round. Antique gentlemen's signets were usually made in larger sizes with a heavy head and broad shoulders. Each listing states the weight in grams and the head size in centimetres, so rings can be compared like for like.
Reading the heraldry
Many antique signets carry a crest or a coat of arms. A crest is the device that sits above the shield on a full coat of arms, and it is often engraved on a signet on its own. A full achievement of arms adds the shield, the helm and often a motto. The antique French signet currently in stock shows this arrangement: a knight's helm in profile above a shield. Other signets carry initials, a monogram or a name, such as the carnelian signet engraved in Arabic calligraphy.
Hallmarks and gold
British gold signets carry a hallmark with the gold standard (for example 18KT or 9KT), the assay office and a date letter, usually inside the shank. Continental signets carry their own marks: French 18KT gold is struck with the eagle's head. The hallmarks of each ring are photographed and described on its page.
How to read hallmarksWhich finger?
In Britain the signet ring is traditionally worn on the little finger of the non-writing hand.
What does wearing a signet ring mean?King Charles's signet ringQuestions about signet rings
What is a signet ring?
A ring with a flat face engraved with a crest, coat of arms, monogram or initials. It was pressed into hot wax to seal and authenticate letters and documents, and is now worn as a family or personal ring.
What is the difference between a signet ring and an intaglio ring?
An intaglio ring is set with a gemstone carved with a design. When that carving was cut to be used as a seal, the ring is an intaglio signet. A plain signet has the design cut into the gold itself.
Why are signet rings engraved in reverse?
So that the impression left in wax reads the right way round.
Which finger is a signet ring worn on?
Traditionally the little finger of the non-writing hand in Britain.
Can an antique signet ring be resized?
Most plain gold shanks can be resized by a jeweller. Each listing gives the current size in UK, US and EU sizes. Ask us about a specific ring before buying.
How do I know how old a signet ring is?
From the hallmarks (date letter and assay office on British rings), the style of the engraving and the construction of the shank. Each listing states the period.
Why buy from us
- Full description, measurements and hallmarks on every listing
- Ring sizes in UK, US and EU
- View in person by appointment
- Insured delivery