Van Cleef & Arpels Jewellery

A small, changing selection of vintage Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery: a mother-of-pearl marqueterie ring, a platinum and diamond ring and a multi-strand pearl and diamond bow bracelet, alongside a diamond pendant by Georges Lenfant, the Paris workshop that made gold work for the great houses. Each listing records signatures, numbers and marks exactly.

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A short history

Van Cleef & Arpels began with the marriage of Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels in 1895. The firm was founded in Paris in 1896 and opened at 22 Place Vendôme in 1906. Estelle's brothers, and later the next generations of the family, ran the house, opening in New York in the late 1930s.

Signature techniques

The Mystery Setting, patented in 1933, holds rubies and sapphires on hidden gold rails so no metal shows between the stones. The Zip necklace, conceived in the 1930s and made from the 1950s, closes like a zip and can be worn as a bracelet. Marqueterie and inlaid hardstones and mother of pearl appear in later pieces.

Alhambra and the clover

The Alhambra design, a four-leaf clover edged with gold beads, was introduced in 1968 and is still made today. Vintage examples are signed and numbered and can differ in weight and detail from current production. We have no Alhambra pieces in stock at present.

Workshops and makers

Like the other Paris houses, Van Cleef & Arpels worked with specialist workshops. Georges Lenfant was known for supple gold chains and textured gold work made for several houses, and pieces under his own name carry his maker's mark. Each listing states only the marks the piece carries.

Reading the marks

Signed pieces read "Van Cleef & Arpels" or "VCA" with a serial number. French-made pieces carry the eagle's head for 18KT gold or the dog's head for platinum, together with a lozenge-shaped maker's mark.

What to check

Check signatures and numbers are crisp, pearls are secure and well strung, and mother of pearl or hardstone inlays are free of cracks and chips.

Pearls and platinum

The house used platinum for its finest pieces from the early 20th century, often pairing diamonds with natural or cultured pearls. Multi-strand pearl bracelets and necklaces should be checked for clean, evenly knotted silk; restringing is routine and does not affect the piece.

Questions

Are Van Cleef & Arpels pieces real gold?

Yes. Van Cleef & Arpels fine jewellery is made in 18KT gold or platinum, marked accordingly, often with French hallmarks such as the eagle's head for gold.

Can you wear Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery every day?

Gold and platinum pieces suit daily wear. Mother of pearl, onyx and other inlays are softer and should be kept away from water, perfume and knocks.

Does Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery tarnish?

Gold and platinum do not tarnish. Inlaid organic materials such as mother of pearl can dull if exposed to chemicals, and a soft dry cloth is the best way to clean them.

What is the Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery Setting?

A technique patented in 1933 in which cut gemstones slide onto fine gold rails hidden beneath them, so the surface shows only stones and no metal.