How to Tell if Cartier Jewellery Is Real
A dealer's guide to checking any Cartier piece: the five checks, where the serial and marks are, how vintage London, Paris and New York pieces are signed, what boxes and certificates do and do not prove, and the checks for each famous collection.
Check the engraving first: a modern Cartier piece carries the Cartier signature, the 750 gold mark, a serial number and, on rings and bracelets, the size, all cut clean, even and at the same depth. Then check the weight, finish, closure and design details against the model. No single detail proves it, so a specialist checks them all.
- Modern Cartier is engraved with the signature, 750, a serial and the size, all cut clean and evenly deep.
- The serial sits inside rings and bracelets and on the clasp of necklaces, and should match any certificate.
- Vintage pieces are signed by city (London, Paris, New York) with local hallmarks, often without a modern serial.
- A box and certificate support a genuine piece but never prove it: the piece is checked first.
In this article
How to tell if Cartier jewellery is real: the five checks
Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, and its best known designs, the Love bracelet of 1969 and the nail bracelet of 1971, are also the most copied (Wikipedia). These checks apply to every modern Cartier piece. Use them together: a good copy can pass one or two.
- Read the engraving
The Cartier signature in its own script, the 750 gold mark (or a platinum mark), a serial number and, on rings and bracelets, the size. Every character is cut clean and evenly deep. Shallow, wobbly or misspelt marks are the first sign of a copy.
- Compare the serial with the signature
The serial should sit at the same depth and in the same style as the rest of the engraving. A serial that looks added later, or a certificate whose number does not match, needs explaining.
- Feel the weight and look at the finish
Cartier fine jewellery is solid 18KT gold or platinum, polished evenly inside and out; the Must de Cartier lines also include sterling silver and vermeil, marked as such. A light gold piece, or a colour change where plating has worn on a piece sold as solid gold, points to a copy.
- Check the working parts
Screws, hinges, clasps and closures fit flush and work smoothly. On a Love bracelet the screws line up and the halves meet without a step.
- Check the design against the model
Count and measure: the number of screws, the proportions of a nail, the eyes and spots of a panther. Copies are often close but not exact.
What genuine marks look like
The marks inside this 1970s ring show what to look for: the 750 gold mark and the Cartier signature cut cleanly to an even depth, with the numbers in the same style beside them.
It is our Cartier 18KT gold heart-shaped pearl ring. For the gold marks themselves see gold hallmarks and stamps decoded.
| What you see | What it points to |
|---|---|
| Deep, even engraving, signature and serial in one style | Consistent with a genuine piece |
| Shallow, laser-light or uneven engraving | A copy, or marks added later |
| Misspelt or wrongly shaped signature | A copy |
| Colour wearing through on a piece sold as solid gold | Plated metal, not solid gold |
| Screws or links out of line, halves that step | A copy or a damaged piece |
| A certificate with a different serial | Papers that do not belong to the piece |
Where to find the serial number and marks
Where the marks sit depends on the piece. Photograph them in good light before you ask anyone for a check.
| Piece | Where to look |
|---|---|
| Rings (Trinity, Love, Juste un Clou) | Inside the band: signature, 750, serial and size |
| Bracelets and bangles | Inside, usually near the opening or the screw closure |
| Necklaces and pendants | On the clasp or a small tag beside it; sometimes on the back of the pendant |
| Earrings | On the back of each earring or the post fitting |
| Brooches | On the back, beside the pin fitting |
Serial and signature
On our Cartier Draperie 18KT gold necklace the serial is engraved boldly and evenly, and the Cartier signature beside it is cut in the same way.
The necklace came with its box and invoice: see the Cartier Draperie necklace.
Cartier does not publish what its serial numbers mean or how they changed over time. Treat any online "serial decoder" with care: a serial is checked against the piece, its engraving and any papers, not read on its own.
Vintage Cartier: London, Paris and New York
In the first half of the 20th century Cartier had houses in Paris, London and New York, each with its own workshops and suppliers, so vintage pieces are often signed with the city where they were made or sold. Pierre Cartier opened the New York branch in 1909 (Wikipedia).
| Signature | Other marks | |
|---|---|---|
| Cartier London | Cartier London | British hallmarks: sponsor's mark, standard, assay office and date letter (UK hallmarks) |
| Cartier Paris | Cartier or Cartier Paris | French marks: the eagle's head for 18KT gold, the dog's head for platinum, and a maker's lozenge (French hallmarks) |
| Cartier New York | Cartier New York or Cartier N.Y. | A stamp such as 14K, 18K or PLAT |
Sources: eagle's head for 18KT gold from 1838 (Adin glossary, Lang Antiques); dog's head for platinum (Adin glossary).
A Cartier London signature
The script signature Cartier London, with a number, on our Art Deco 18KT gold, enamel and diamond cufflinks. London pieces of this period also carry British hallmarks, which give the year.
A vintage piece without a modern serial is normal. What matters is that the signature, the hallmarks, the workmanship and the design all belong to the same period.
Art Deco Cartier, like this platinum and rose cut diamond bow brooch, is judged on its workmanship as much as its marks: the setting of every stone, the finish of the platinum and the back. Browse Cartier jewellery or read vintage Cartier in 2026.
Boxes, certificates and invoices
Support, never proof
The red Cartier box, the certificate and the original invoice all support a genuine piece, and a certificate's serial should match the engraving. But boxes and papers are copied too, and genuine boxes are sold on their own, so they can be paired with the wrong piece.
Many genuine Cartier pieces have lost their box over the years. We check the piece first and buy it with or without papers.
- Keep everything together: box, outer box, certificate, invoice, pouch and, for a Love bracelet, the screwdriver.
- Check the certificate: the model and serial should match the piece.
- Old boxes: antique Cartier boxes are collected in their own right; see our antique boxes.
The same reasoning applies to other houses: see Van Cleef Alhambra with or without a box.
Checks by collection
Each famous design has its own details. Our collection guides take you through them step by step.
| Collection | Since | What to check | Guide |
|---|---|---|---|
| Love bracelet | 1969 | Engraving, serial, screws, closure, finish | Spot a fake Love bracelet |
| Juste un Clou | 1971; relaunched 2012 | Nail head, point, inside engraving | Juste un Clou guide |
| Trinity | 1924 | Three bands rolling freely, engraving inside | Trinity ring guide |
| Panthère | Panther motif 1914 | Matching eyes set level, flush spots, the head | Panthère guide |
| Clash de Cartier | 2019 | Studs and clous, engraving | Clash guide |
On a Panthère piece the modelling of the head gives a copy away: the eyes must match and sit level, and the spots sit flush with clean edges. Our Panthère 18KT tri-colour gold choker came with its original box.
Aldo Cipullo designed both the Love bracelet and the original nail bracelet for Cartier in New York; see Aldo Cipullo at Cartier. Cartier watches are checked as watches as well: are Cartier watches worth buying?.
Valuing and selling Cartier jewellery
Once a piece is confirmed genuine it is valued on the model and size, the gold or platinum, any diamonds or stones, its condition, its period, whether it has its box and certificate, and current demand. Vintage pieces signed by the London, Paris or New York house are judged on their workmanship and rarity too. See does Cartier hold its value?
Every Cartier piece is different. Send us photos of the piece, the engraving and any box or certificate, and we will tell you what yours is worth, free and with no obligation. Request a free valuation.
- Sell your Cartier jewellery: how we check and buy Cartier
- Dealer or auction? The trade-offs explained
- Appointments are available at our Mayfair and Braintree offices.
Mozeris Fine Antiques is an independent dealer and buyer of pre-owned jewellery. We are not affiliated with Cartier.
Sources
- Wikipedia, Cartier (jeweler): founding, New York branch, Love and nail bracelets
- Adin, eagle's head hallmark and dog's head hallmark
- Lang Antiques, precious metal fineness
- Our own photographs of the marks on Cartier pieces we have handled
- Check the engraving, the serial, the weight and finish, the working parts and the design together.
- Serials sit inside rings and bracelets and on necklace clasps; they should match the certificate.
- Vintage London, Paris and New York pieces carry city signatures and local hallmarks.
- Boxes and papers support a piece; they never prove it on their own.
Questions we are asked
How can you tell if Cartier jewellery is real?
Check the engraving first: a modern Cartier piece carries the Cartier signature, the 750 gold mark, a serial number and, on rings and bracelets, the size, all cut clean, even and at the same depth. Then check the weight, finish, closure and design details against the model. No single detail proves it, so a specialist checks them all.
Where is the serial number on Cartier jewellery?
On rings and bracelets the serial is engraved inside the band, next to the Cartier signature, the 750 mark and the size. On necklaces it is usually on the clasp or a tag near it, and on earrings on the back or the post fitting. It should be crisp, evenly spaced and match any certificate.
Does all Cartier jewellery have a serial number?
Modern Cartier jewellery does. Vintage pieces vary: Art Deco and mid-century pieces made in London, Paris or New York are signed, often with the city, and many carry a workshop or stock number and local hallmarks rather than a modern serial. A vintage piece without a modern serial can be entirely genuine.
Does a Cartier box and certificate prove a piece is genuine?
No. The red Cartier box and certificate support a genuine piece, and the serial on the certificate should match the engraving, but boxes and papers are copied too and can be paired with the wrong item. Many genuine pieces have lost their box, so the piece itself is always checked first.
What marks are on vintage Cartier London, Paris and New York pieces?
Cartier London pieces are usually signed Cartier London and carry British hallmarks with a date letter. Paris pieces carry French marks, such as the eagle's head for 18KT gold, and a maker's mark. New York pieces are often signed Cartier New York or Cartier N.Y. with a gold or platinum stamp.
What are the signs of a fake Cartier?
Shallow, uneven or misspelt engraving, a serial in a different style or depth from the signature, a piece that feels light, plating wearing through on a piece sold as gold, loose or misaligned screws, and details that do not match the real design, such as the wrong number of screws or a badly modelled panther head.
Which Cartier pieces are copied most?
The Love bracelet, the Juste un Clou nail bracelet, the Trinity ring and the Clash de Cartier range are the pieces most often copied, because their shapes are simple and widely recognised. Each has its own checks, from the screws and closure on a Love bracelet to the nail head and point on a Juste un Clou.
Can you check if my Cartier is real from photographs?
Yes. Send clear photographs of the whole piece, the engraving, the serial, the closure and any box or certificate. We check the marks and details against the model, tell you what we see and give a free valuation within one working day. Mozeris is an independent dealer, not a Cartier boutique or agent.
Shop Cartier, or find out what yours is worth
Browse pre-owned and vintage Cartier jewellery, each piece checked and described. Selling? The valuation is free, from photographs.
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Keep reading
The same checks for Tiffany: how to tell if Tiffany jewellery is real.