Cartier Watch Value, and How to Sell

The core lines do. The Tank, Santos and Panthère have stayed in production, or come back, for decades, so buyers know them and look for them. Value holds best on watches with their original dial, crown and bracelet, an unpolished case and their papers. Quartz and vermeil Must de Cartier models sit in a more modest market than gold and mechanical pieces, but they still sell.

As watches to wear and to sell on, yes. Cartier designs change slowly, so a Tank bought decades ago still looks like a Tank today, and the second-hand market rewards that. The honest answer for your own watch depends on what it is, so the useful question is what it is worth now.

1. 1904Santos
2. 1917Tank
3. 1922Tank Louis Cartier
4. 1977Must de Cartier
5. 1983Panthère
6. 1985Pasha
7. 2007Ballon Bleu

We do not quote a figure before we see the watch, and we do not publish prices. Send four photographs: the dial straight on, the caseback with its numbers, the crown side, and the bracelet or strap with its clasp. Our watch specialist identifies the model and replies with a considered valuation, free, within one working day.

1. Photograph the dial and caseback
2. Add the reference and serial
3. A free valuation within one working day

• Model and reference. Identify the line, size and case.
• Movement. Mechanical or quartz, and Cartier's own calibres.
• Originality. The dial, hands, crown and bracelet as they left Cartier.
• Condition. Crisp case edges, no heavy polishing.
• Box and papers. Support the identity and date of sale.

• Tank, in all its forms: Louis Cartier, Française, Américaine, Solo, MC and vintage Tank.
• Santos, from the Santos-Dumont to the Santos Galbée and the modern Santos.
• Must de Cartier, including vermeil Must Tank and Must Ronde.
• Panthère, ladies' and men's, on its supple bracelet.
• Ballon Bleu, Pasha, Baignoire, Calibre and the Cartier Privé collection.
• Vintage and antique Cartier, including early Cartier Paris wristwatches.

• 
  TankOur Tank Louis Cartier
• 
  SantosIllustration
• 
  Must RondeOur Must de Cartier
• 
  PanthèreOur Panthère
• 
  Ballon BleuIllustration
• 
  PashaIllustration

The Santos was made in 1904 for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, and the Tank followed in 1917. On both we check that the case keeps its sharp lines, the dial and blued hands are original, and the crown carries its cabochon. A Tank Louis Cartier in gold, like the one at the top of this page, should keep its slim, crisp case.

1234

Many Cartier dials hide a tiny "Cartier" signature inside one of the Roman numerals, often the VII or the X. It is easy to miss and hard for a copyist to get right, so we always look for it. It is one of the first things we check on a Tank or a Must.

The Must de Cartier line arrived in the 1970s, many of its watches cased in vermeil, which is gilded sterling silver, and marked as such on the back. Collectors look for original lacquered dials, like the burgundy on our Must Ronde, and clean cases. Vintage gold Tanks and early Cartier Paris pieces are valued on originality first.

• A Cartier Paris hexagonal wristwatch in platinum and diamonds, circa 1913, a published piece from Cartier's earliest years of wristwatch making.
• A Baignoire Mini in white gold, reference 2369, from around 1998.
• A Tank Américaine chronograph with an automatic movement, in gold.
• A Panthère in yellow gold on its original bracelet.

We buy Cartier watches with or without the box and papers. The certificate records the serial and date of sale, and service papers show the work done, so both support the value. Without them, we identify the watch from its caseback numbers, movement and dial.