Guide · Gold jewellery

Gold Plated vs Gold Filled vs Solid Gold: Marks, Value and Selling

How to read the stamps, what each layer of gold means, and which pieces have any gold value when you come to sell.

By the Mozeris specialistsUpdated 6 min read

Three closed hunter pocket watch cases: solid yellow gold, worn gold filled showing brass, and silver
Three hunter pocket watch cases: solid gold, worn gold filled showing brass, and silver

The short answer

Solid gold is gold alloy all the way through, marked with its carat. Gold plated means a very thin layer of gold applied to base metal or silver, usually by electroplating. Gold filled, also called rolled gold, has a much thicker layer of gold alloy bonded to a base metal core by heat and pressure.

  • Solid gold carries a carat mark or hallmark: 375, 585, 750, 9K, 14K, 18K.
  • Gold plated (GP, GE, HGE) is a very thin layer of gold over base metal or silver.
  • Gold filled (GF) and rolled gold have a thicker bonded layer, but the core is still base metal.

What is the difference between gold plated, gold filled and solid gold?

Solid gold is gold alloy all the way through, marked with its carat. Gold plated means a very thin layer of gold applied to base metal or silver, usually by electroplating. Gold filled, also called rolled gold, has a much thicker layer of gold alloy bonded to a base metal core by heat and pressure.

StampMeansSolid gold?
375, 585, 750, 916; 9K, 14K, 18KSolid gold of that caratYes
GP, GE, EPGold plated, gold electroplateNo
HGE, HGPHeavy gold electroplate: a thicker plateNo
GF, 1/20 14K GFGold filled: bonded gold layerNo
RGP, rolled goldRolled gold plate: a thinner bonded layerNo
925 with gold colour, vermeilGold over sterling silverNo, but solid silver
Three closed hunter pocket watch cases: solid yellow gold, worn gold filled showing brass, and silver
Three hunter pocket watch cases: solid gold, worn gold filled showing brass, and silver

Side by side

Solid gold, worn gold filled and silver cases look alike when new. Wear tells them apart: the gold filled case in the middle shows brass where the gold layer has rubbed through.

What does HGE mean on a ring?

HGE stands for heavy gold electroplate: a ring of base metal, usually brass, electroplated with a thicker than usual layer of gold. A stamp such as 14K HGE or 18KT HGE gives the carat of the plating, not of the ring, so it is not solid gold. HGE rings were common in American costume jewellery from the 1960s.

Is gold filled jewellery worth anything?

A little. Gold filled jewellery contains a real layer of gold alloy, by law in the United States at least one twentieth of the item's weight, so refiners buy it in bulk for that gold. The core is base metal, so it is worth far less than solid gold. Signed or antique gold filled pieces can be collected.

Back of a worn gold filled hunter pocket watch case with brass base metal showing through at the edges
A worn gold filled case with brass showing through at the edges

How it wears

Gold filled wears slowly, but on high points and edges the layer eventually thins and the brass beneath shows, as on this pocket watch case.

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What does 1/20 14K GF mean?

1/20 14K GF means gold filled with a layer of 14KT gold alloy that makes up one twentieth, or 5%, of the item's total weight. The rest is base metal, usually brass. The same rule applies to 1/20 12K GF and 10K GF. It is a United States trade standard and does not mean the piece is solid gold.

What is rolled gold?

Rolled gold is gold sheet bonded to a base metal core by heat and pressure and then rolled thin, the British and European name for what Americans call gold filled or rolled gold plate. It was used widely for Victorian and Edwardian lockets, bangles, chains and watch cases. French rolled gold is often stamped doublé or FIX.

Reverse of a French rolled gold stick pin, struck FIX in an oval
FIX in an oval on the back of a French rolled gold stick pin

FIX and doublé

French makers stamped rolled gold with FIX in an oval, or the word doublé. These marks mean plated, not solid gold.

A 1970s Bulova Accuquartz wristwatch with a gold electroplate bezel and a 10K rolled gold plate case back
A 1970s Bulova watch: gold electroplate bezel and 10K rolled gold plate case back

Rolled gold plate on a watch

This 1970s Bulova has a gold electroplate bezel and a 10K rolled gold plate case back. RGP means a bonded layer thinner than the one twentieth needed to call it gold filled.

What is gold vermeil?

Gold vermeil is sterling silver plated with gold. In the United States the term requires gold of at least 10 carat, at least 2.5 microns thick, over sterling silver; in Britain the traditional name is silver gilt. A vermeil piece marked 925 is solid silver underneath, so it has silver value, though not gold value.

Asprey sponsor's mark with London hallmarks for 1939 inside a silver-gilt compact
London hallmarks for 1939 inside an Asprey silver-gilt compact

Silver gilt

British silver gilt is hallmarked as silver, as inside this 1939 Asprey compact. The gilding does not change the hallmark.

Is 18KT gold vermeil good?

It is a good choice for affordable jewellery: 18 carat vermeil gives the colour of 18KT gold over a solid sterling silver base, and the thicker plate lasts longer than ordinary plating. It still wears with daily use, especially on rings, and can be replated. Its value is the silver, not the gold.

Is 18KT gold plated jewellery worth anything?

Very little as metal. 18KT gold plating is a microscopically thin layer, so the gold in a plated piece is too small to recover, and gold buyers will not pay for it. Value comes only from a collected designer or maker, such as signed vintage costume jewellery, or from a silver base marked 925.

How can I tell if my jewellery is solid gold or plated?

Look for a stamp first: 375, 585, 750 or a British hallmark means solid gold, while GP, GE, HGE, GF, RGP or rolled gold means plated or filled. Check worn edges and clasps for a different colour showing through. Gold is not magnetic, but neither are brass and silver, so a magnet only rules out steel.

9 and .375 stamped on the clasp of a 1950s 9KT gold bracelet watch
9 and .375 on a 1950s 9KT gold clasp: a solid gold mark

A solid gold mark

On older British pieces, 9 and .375 or 18 mean solid gold, as on this 1950s 9 carat clasp. A full hallmark adds an assay office mark and a date letter.

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Can silver be gold plated?

Yes. Silver is often gold plated, which makes it vermeil or silver gilt. Silver gilt has been made for centuries, for church plate, cups, boxes and dessert services, and the gilding was originally applied with mercury, a method now banned. The silver keeps its hallmark and its silver value under the gold.

Are Chanel and Hermès bracelets gold plated?

Most Chanel costume jewellery, such as its CC earrings and chain belts, is gold-plated metal, while its fine jewellery line is 18KT gold. Hermès enamel bracelets such as the Clic H are usually gold or palladium plated, and its fine jewellery is solid gold. Check the stamps and any paperwork.

Are vintage Trifari and Monet gold-tone pieces gold?

No. Trifari, Monet and other American costume jewellery makers used gold-tone plated base metal, sometimes over sterling silver in the 1940s, when base metal was restricted during the war. Their pieces are collected as vintage costume jewellery for their design and maker, not for gold content.

Is a gold plated Cartier bracelet real?

Cartier made gold-plated silver, or vermeil, pieces under the Les Must de Cartier line in the 1970s and 1980s, so a vintage Must de Cartier vermeil bracelet can be genuine. The Love and Juste un Clou bracelets are made in solid 18KT gold. A plated Love bracelet is not a genuine Cartier.

Can I sell, pawn or scrap gold plated and gold filled jewellery?

Gold plated jewellery is worth nothing as scrap, and pawnbrokers and gold buyers do not usually take it. Gold filled jewellery can be sold to refiners in bulk for its gold layer. Vermeil sells as silver. Signed designer and vintage costume pieces can sell to collectors. Send photos and stamps if you are unsure.

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Sources

Questions

What is the difference between gold plated, gold filled and solid gold?

Solid gold is gold alloy all the way through, marked with its carat. Gold plated means a very thin layer of gold applied to base metal or silver, usually by electroplating. Gold filled, also called rolled gold, has a much thicker layer of gold alloy bonded to a base metal core by heat and pressure.

What does HGE mean on a ring?

HGE stands for heavy gold electroplate: a ring of base metal, usually brass, electroplated with a thicker than usual layer of gold. A stamp such as 14K HGE or 18KT HGE gives the carat of the plating, not of the ring, so it is not solid gold. HGE rings were common in American costume jewellery from the 1960s.

Is gold filled jewellery worth anything?

A little. Gold filled jewellery contains a real layer of gold alloy, by law in the United States at least one twentieth of the item's weight, so refiners buy it in bulk for that gold. The core is base metal, so it is worth far less than solid gold. Signed or antique gold filled pieces can be collected.

What does 1/20 14K GF mean?

1/20 14K GF means gold filled with a layer of 14KT gold alloy that makes up one twentieth, or 5%, of the item's total weight. The rest is base metal, usually brass. The same rule applies to 1/20 12K GF and 10K GF. It is a United States trade standard and does not mean the piece is solid gold.

What is rolled gold?

Rolled gold is gold sheet bonded to a base metal core by heat and pressure and then rolled thin, the British and European name for what Americans call gold filled or rolled gold plate. It was used widely for Victorian and Edwardian lockets, bangles, chains and watch cases. French rolled gold is often stamped doublé or FIX.

What is gold vermeil?

Gold vermeil is sterling silver plated with gold. In the United States the term requires gold of at least 10 carat, at least 2.5 microns thick, over sterling silver; in Britain the traditional name is silver gilt. A vermeil piece marked 925 is solid silver underneath, so it has silver value, though not gold value.

Is 18KT gold vermeil good?

It is a good choice for affordable jewellery: 18 carat vermeil gives the colour of 18KT gold over a solid sterling silver base, and the thicker plate lasts longer than ordinary plating. It still wears with daily use, especially on rings, and can be replated. Its value is the silver, not the gold.

Is 18KT gold plated jewellery worth anything?

Very little as metal. 18KT gold plating is a microscopically thin layer, so the gold in a plated piece is too small to recover, and gold buyers will not pay for it. Value comes only from a collected designer or maker, such as signed vintage costume jewellery, or from a silver base marked 925.

How can I tell if my jewellery is solid gold or plated?

Look for a stamp first: 375, 585, 750 or a British hallmark means solid gold, while GP, GE, HGE, GF, RGP or rolled gold means plated or filled. Check worn edges and clasps for a different colour showing through. Gold is not magnetic, but neither are brass and silver, so a magnet only rules out steel.

Can silver be gold plated?

Yes. Silver is often gold plated, which makes it vermeil or silver gilt. Silver gilt has been made for centuries, for church plate, cups, boxes and dessert services, and the gilding was originally applied with mercury, a method now banned. The silver keeps its hallmark and its silver value under the gold.

Are Chanel and Hermès bracelets gold plated?

Most Chanel costume jewellery, such as its CC earrings and chain belts, is gold-plated metal, while its fine jewellery line is 18KT gold. Hermès enamel bracelets such as the Clic H are usually gold or palladium plated, and its fine jewellery is solid gold. Check the stamps and any paperwork.

Are vintage Trifari and Monet gold-tone pieces gold?

No. Trifari, Monet and other American costume jewellery makers used gold-tone plated base metal, sometimes over sterling silver in the 1940s, when base metal was restricted during the war. Their pieces are collected as vintage costume jewellery for their design and maker, not for gold content.

Is a gold plated Cartier bracelet real?

Cartier made gold-plated silver, or vermeil, pieces under the Les Must de Cartier line in the 1970s and 1980s, so a vintage Must de Cartier vermeil bracelet can be genuine. The Love and Juste un Clou bracelets are made in solid 18KT gold. A plated Love bracelet is not a genuine Cartier.

Can I sell, pawn or scrap gold plated and gold filled jewellery?

Gold plated jewellery is worth nothing as scrap, and pawnbrokers and gold buyers do not usually take it. Gold filled jewellery can be sold to refiners in bulk for its gold layer. Vermeil sells as silver. Signed designer and vintage costume pieces can sell to collectors. Send photos and stamps if you are unsure.

Is 10K gold filled worth anything?

A small amount. 10K gold filled has a bonded layer of 10KT gold, by US rule at least one twentieth of the item's weight, over a base metal core. Refiners buy gold filled in bulk for that gold, but it is worth far less than solid 10K. A 10K stamp without GF means solid gold.

What does GP mean on a watch?

GP on a watch, such as an Orient or Seiko marked GP, means gold plated: the case or bezel is base metal or stainless steel with a thin plating of gold. It is not solid gold and has no gold value. A solid gold watch case is stamped with its carat, such as 9K, 14K, 18K or 750.

What does 9KT gold filled mean?

9KT gold filled means a layer of 9KT gold bonded to a base metal core, the British equivalent of rolled gold. It is not solid gold, and British law does not allow it to be described simply as gold. Solid 9KT gold is hallmarked 375, or 9 and .375 on pieces made before 1975.

Is gold filled jewellery good for a wedding ring?

It lasts longer than gold plating but not as long as solid gold. A ring is worn every day and rubbed against surfaces, so the gold layer eventually wears through on the palm side and shows the base metal. Solid 9 or 18KT gold is the lasting choice for a wedding band.