What is the difference between gold plated, gold filled and solid gold?
Solid gold is gold alloy all the way through, marked with its carat. Gold plated means a very thin layer of gold applied to base metal or silver, usually by electroplating. Gold filled, also called rolled gold, has a much thicker layer of gold alloy bonded to a base metal core by heat and pressure.
| Stamp | Means | Solid gold? |
|---|---|---|
| 375, 585, 750, 916; 9K, 14K, 18K | Solid gold of that carat | Yes |
| GP, GE, EP | Gold plated, gold electroplate | No |
| HGE, HGP | Heavy gold electroplate: a thicker plate | No |
| GF, 1/20 14K GF | Gold filled: bonded gold layer | No |
| RGP, rolled gold | Rolled gold plate: a thinner bonded layer | No |
| 925 with gold colour, vermeil | Gold over sterling silver | No, but solid silver |

Side by side
Solid gold, worn gold filled and silver cases look alike when new. Wear tells them apart: the gold filled case in the middle shows brass where the gold layer has rubbed through.
What does HGE mean on a ring?
HGE stands for heavy gold electroplate: a ring of base metal, usually brass, electroplated with a thicker than usual layer of gold. A stamp such as 14K HGE or 18KT HGE gives the carat of the plating, not of the ring, so it is not solid gold. HGE rings were common in American costume jewellery from the 1960s.
Is gold filled jewellery worth anything?
A little. Gold filled jewellery contains a real layer of gold alloy, by law in the United States at least one twentieth of the item's weight, so refiners buy it in bulk for that gold. The core is base metal, so it is worth far less than solid gold. Signed or antique gold filled pieces can be collected.

How it wears
Gold filled wears slowly, but on high points and edges the layer eventually thins and the brass beneath shows, as on this pocket watch case.
Send us photos for a free valuation
What does 1/20 14K GF mean?
1/20 14K GF means gold filled with a layer of 14KT gold alloy that makes up one twentieth, or 5%, of the item's total weight. The rest is base metal, usually brass. The same rule applies to 1/20 12K GF and 10K GF. It is a United States trade standard and does not mean the piece is solid gold.
What is rolled gold?
Rolled gold is gold sheet bonded to a base metal core by heat and pressure and then rolled thin, the British and European name for what Americans call gold filled or rolled gold plate. It was used widely for Victorian and Edwardian lockets, bangles, chains and watch cases. French rolled gold is often stamped doublé or FIX.

FIX and doublé
French makers stamped rolled gold with FIX in an oval, or the word doublé. These marks mean plated, not solid gold.

Rolled gold plate on a watch
This 1970s Bulova has a gold electroplate bezel and a 10K rolled gold plate case back. RGP means a bonded layer thinner than the one twentieth needed to call it gold filled.
What is gold vermeil?
Gold vermeil is sterling silver plated with gold. In the United States the term requires gold of at least 10 carat, at least 2.5 microns thick, over sterling silver; in Britain the traditional name is silver gilt. A vermeil piece marked 925 is solid silver underneath, so it has silver value, though not gold value.

Silver gilt
British silver gilt is hallmarked as silver, as inside this 1939 Asprey compact. The gilding does not change the hallmark.
Is 18KT gold vermeil good?
It is a good choice for affordable jewellery: 18 carat vermeil gives the colour of 18KT gold over a solid sterling silver base, and the thicker plate lasts longer than ordinary plating. It still wears with daily use, especially on rings, and can be replated. Its value is the silver, not the gold.
Is 18KT gold plated jewellery worth anything?
Very little as metal. 18KT gold plating is a microscopically thin layer, so the gold in a plated piece is too small to recover, and gold buyers will not pay for it. Value comes only from a collected designer or maker, such as signed vintage costume jewellery, or from a silver base marked 925.
How can I tell if my jewellery is solid gold or plated?
Look for a stamp first: 375, 585, 750 or a British hallmark means solid gold, while GP, GE, HGE, GF, RGP or rolled gold means plated or filled. Check worn edges and clasps for a different colour showing through. Gold is not magnetic, but neither are brass and silver, so a magnet only rules out steel.

A solid gold mark
On older British pieces, 9 and .375 or 18 mean solid gold, as on this 1950s 9 carat clasp. A full hallmark adds an assay office mark and a date letter.
Solid 18KT gold jewellery in stock
Shop all 114
Cartier London Art Deco 18KT Gold Enamel and Diamond Cufflinks£2,950
Bulgari Tubogas 18KT Gold and Onyx Bangle, Original Box£4,850
Cartier Draperie 18KT Gold Necklace, Original Box and Invoice£19,850
Bulgari Passo Doppio 18KT Gold and Cultured Pearl Drop Earrings£5,950
Bulgari Passo Doppio 18KT Gold and Cultured Pearl Bracelet, Original Box£8,950
Cartier Panthère 18KT Tri-Colour Gold Choker Necklace, Original Box£24,850
18KT Gold Carved Amethyst Intaglio Armorial Signet Ring£5,000
David Morris 18KT Gold Heart Diamond and Baguette Bow Ring, 1.70 ct£7,300
Can silver be gold plated?
Yes. Silver is often gold plated, which makes it vermeil or silver gilt. Silver gilt has been made for centuries, for church plate, cups, boxes and dessert services, and the gilding was originally applied with mercury, a method now banned. The silver keeps its hallmark and its silver value under the gold.
Are Chanel and Hermès bracelets gold plated?
Most Chanel costume jewellery, such as its CC earrings and chain belts, is gold-plated metal, while its fine jewellery line is 18KT gold. Hermès enamel bracelets such as the Clic H are usually gold or palladium plated, and its fine jewellery is solid gold. Check the stamps and any paperwork.
Are vintage Trifari and Monet gold-tone pieces gold?
No. Trifari, Monet and other American costume jewellery makers used gold-tone plated base metal, sometimes over sterling silver in the 1940s, when base metal was restricted during the war. Their pieces are collected as vintage costume jewellery for their design and maker, not for gold content.
Is a gold plated Cartier bracelet real?
Cartier made gold-plated silver, or vermeil, pieces under the Les Must de Cartier line in the 1970s and 1980s, so a vintage Must de Cartier vermeil bracelet can be genuine. The Love and Juste un Clou bracelets are made in solid 18KT gold. A plated Love bracelet is not a genuine Cartier.
Can I sell, pawn or scrap gold plated and gold filled jewellery?
Gold plated jewellery is worth nothing as scrap, and pawnbrokers and gold buyers do not usually take it. Gold filled jewellery can be sold to refiners in bulk for its gold layer. Vermeil sells as silver. Signed designer and vintage costume pieces can sell to collectors. Send photos and stamps if you are unsure.
Every piece is different. Send us a few photos and we will tell you what yours is worth, free and with no obligation. Request a free valuation.
Request a free valuation
Browse our antique solid gold jewellery.
Sources
- US FTC Jewelry Guides 16 CFR 23 (gold filled 1/20, rolled gold plate, gold electroplate, heavy gold electroplate, vermeil minimum 10K over s
- Gold-filled jewelry
- UK Hallmarking Act 1973 (description of articles as gold)
- Trifari sterling in the 1940s
- Les Must de Cartier vermeil
- Chanel costume vs fine jewellery
