David Yurman Jewellery: Cable, Materials, Care and Value

David Yurman is best known for the Cable bracelet, a twisted helix of metal inspired by ancient torques, created in the early 1980s. The American house, founded in New York in 1980 by David Yurman, a sculptor, and Sybil Yurman, a painter, mixes sterling silver with gold and coloured gemstones in a sculptural style.

Both. Much David Yurman jewellery is sterling silver, often with 14KT or 18KT gold accents and gemstones, and the house also makes solid 18KT gold and diamond jewellery. Pieces are usually stamped with D.Y. or the David Yurman name and the metal marks, such as 925 for silver and 585 or 750 for gold.

Most David Yurman cable bracelets are sterling silver, with gold end caps or accents, rather than solid gold. Some models are made entirely in 18KT gold. Check the stamps on the end caps or inside the bracelet: 925 marks the silver, and 585 or 750 marks the gold.

Sterling silver reacts with sulphur in the air and darkens over time, and David Yurman also oxidises the recesses of many cable designs on purpose to show the texture. Normal tarnish on the raised surfaces can be polished off with a silver cloth; avoid dips that strip the intended darkening from the grooves.

David Yurman silver and gold can be worn every day, but water, chlorine, soap and lotions speed up tarnish on silver and dull gemstones. Take pieces off to shower, swim and exercise, dry them if they get wet, and store silver in a pouch or bag to slow tarnishing.

Many David Yurman cable bracelets are open cuffs with no clasp: flex them gently over the narrow side of the wrist. Chain bracelets usually have a lobster, toggle or push-button box clasp; press the button or tab and pull apart gently. Do not bend a cuff repeatedly, which weakens the metal.

Plain-shank rings can usually be resized by a jeweller, but cable rings and pieces set with stones all round are harder, because cutting the twisted cable shows. Cuff bracelets come in set sizes and are best exchanged rather than altered; chain bracelets can take an extender or links. Check sizing before buying.

Look for crisp stamps reading D.Y. or David Yurman with 925, 585 or 750, cleanly struck on the end caps, clasp or inside. The cable should twist evenly with consistent oxidisation in the grooves, and gold accents should be solid, not plated. Copies are often lighter, with soft stamps and uneven twisting.

Second-hand value depends on the metal, the gemstones and diamonds, the design, condition and demand. Solid gold pieces keep the value of their gold, while silver pieces are valued mainly on design and condition. Send photographs of the piece and its stamps for a free valuation.

David Yurman is an American jewellery house based in New York, where David and Sybil Yurman founded it in 1980. It is a family company known internationally for its cable designs, sold through its own stores and other retailers. Mozeris Fine Antiques buys and sells pre-owned pieces independently.

Yes. Earlier David Yurman pieces from the 1980s and 1990s, especially cable bracelets, rings and cuffs in silver with 14KT or 18KT gold and coloured stones, are collected as examples of the house's original designs. Check the D.Y. stamps and metal marks, the condition of the cable and the stones.

Wipe David Yurman silver with a soft silver polishing cloth on the raised surfaces only, leaving the darkened grooves of the cable intact. Gold pieces can be washed in warm water with mild soap and a soft brush, then dried well. Avoid silver dips, and keep pearls, turquoise and other porous stones out of water.