Citizen Watches: Eco-Drive, Vintage Models and Value

Yes. Citizen grew from the Shokosha Watch Research Institute, founded in Tokyo in 1918, which finished its first pocket watch in 1924; the company itself was founded in 1930. The name Citizen was suggested by Gotō Shinpei, then mayor of Tokyo, in the hope that the watch would be owned widely. Citizen also owns Bulova.

Many are, especially higher-end lines such as The Citizen, Campanola and Attesa, but Citizen also assembles watches in other Asian factories. Citizen is not Swiss made, although the group owns the Swiss brand Frédérique Constant. Its Miyota division supplies quartz and mechanical movements to watch makers around the world.

Eco-Drive is Citizen's light-powered watch system: a solar cell behind or around the dial charges a rechargeable cell, so the watch never needs a battery change in normal use. It grew from the Crystron Solar Cell of 1976, the first analogue quartz watch powered by light, and the Eco-Drive name dates from the mid-1990s.

Eco-Drive watches do not need ordinary batteries: light recharges a long-life cell inside, which may need replacing after many years. Older and standard Citizen quartz watches use a normal battery. Citizen automatic watches are mechanical and are wound by movement. The dial or case back says Eco-Drive, quartz or automatic.

Citizen introduced a multi-station radio-controlled wristwatch in 1993 and later combined radio control with Eco-Drive, especially in the Attesa and Promaster ranges. These watches set themselves from time signal transmitters, including the UK signal, and some newer models use satellite time. The dial or papers name the feature.

The Caliber 0100, launched in 2019, is a light-powered quartz movement rated to an annual accuracy of plus or minus one second, without any radio correction. It powers The Citizen's top models and is one of the most accurate wristwatch movements made.

Most Citizen watches are water resistant, not waterproof, to a stated depth. WR100 or 10 bar on the case back means suitable for swimming; Promaster divers are rated for diving. Water resistance depends on intact seals and a pushed-in or screwed-down crown, so have an older watch tested before swimming.

Citizen case backs are stamped with the calibre and case number, such as a code like GN-4-S on older models, and a serial number, which a Citizen service centre can use to trace the watch. Base metal on the back means the case is not solid gold or silver, even if the front is plated.

Most vintage Citizens are worth modest sums, because they were made in large numbers. Early mechanical models, 1970s chronographs and divers, the Crystron Solar Cell and pieces in solid gold cases interest collectors more. Original dials and good condition matter. Send photographs of the dial and case back for a free valuation.

A Citizen can last for decades. Eco-Drive watches run for many years on their rechargeable cell, which can be replaced, and Citizen mechanical watches can be serviced like any other. Keep seals in good order, avoid hard knocks and magnets, and store Eco-Drive watches in light so the cell stays charged.

Citizen makes automatic mechanical watches alongside its Eco-Drive and quartz ranges, including mechanical Promaster divers, the Series 8 line and The Citizen mechanical models, many using movements from its own Miyota division. Eco-Drive watches are light-powered quartz, not automatic. The dial or case back says Automatic where it applies.

Base metal on a Citizen case back means the case is made of a non-precious alloy, usually brass, often plated in gold or silver colour on the front. It is not solid gold or silver. A stainless steel back is marked stainless steel. The codes beside it identify the case and calibre for servicing.

Some are. Citizen automatics of the 1960s and 1970s, including early divers, chronographs and high-beat models, have a growing following, especially with original dials and bracelets. Everyday automatics from the period are affordable. Send photographs of the dial and case back for a free valuation.

Citizen models described as diamond-set use genuine diamonds, usually small single-cut or round stones on the dial or bezel, stated in the model description. They add sparkle more than value, because the stones are tiny. Crystal-set fashion models use glass crystals instead; check the papers.

Stainless steel and titanium Citizen watches do not tarnish, though they can scratch. Gold-plated and base metal cases can wear through to the metal underneath over years of use, especially on the bracelet and case back. Clean with a soft cloth and keep perfume and chemicals away.