History of the Patek Philippe Nautilus
Patek Philippe launched the Nautilus in 1976, designed by Gérald Genta. The shape of the bezel, a rounded octagon with two side ears, was inspired by the porthole of a ship, and the case was built in two parts to give water resistance to 120 metres. The first reference, 3700/1A, measured 40 mm across, large for its time, which led collectors to call it the Jumbo. It used the ultra-thin automatic calibre 28-255 C, derived from a Jaeger-LeCoultre base, and was made in steel on an integrated bracelet. A ladies' model followed in 1980 and the mid-size 3800/1A of 37.5 mm in 1981, with Patek's own calibre 335 SC. In 2006, for the model's thirtieth anniversary, Patek Philippe introduced the 5711/1A with calibre 324 SC and centre seconds, together with complicated models such as the 5712/1A with power reserve and moon phase and the 5980/1A flyback chronograph. Later 5711 production received calibre 26-330 S C. In 2022 the 41 mm 5811/1G in 18KT white gold succeeded the steel 5711. The horizontally embossed dial, the integrated bracelet and the hinged case construction have stayed central to every generation.
Key references
| Ref. 3700/1A | 40 mm, stainless steel. Automatic calibre 28-255 C. Introduced 1976. The original Jumbo, slim at about 7.6 mm, on an integrated steel bracelet. |
|---|---|
| Ref. 3800/1A | 37.5 mm, stainless steel. Automatic calibre 335 SC. Introduced 1981 and made until 2006. The mid-size Nautilus with centre seconds. |
| Ref. 5711/1A | 40 mm, stainless steel. Automatic calibre 324 SC, with calibre 26-330 S C in later production. Made from 2006 to 2021. Centre seconds and a display caseback. |
| Ref. 5712/1A | 40 mm, stainless steel. Automatic micro-rotor calibre 240 PS IRM C LU. Introduced 2006. Power reserve, moon phase, date and small seconds on an asymmetric dial. |
| Ref. 5980/1A | 40.5 mm, stainless steel. Automatic calibre CH 28-520 C. Introduced 2006. Flyback chronograph with a combined 60 minute and 12 hour counter. |
| Ref. 5811/1G | 41 mm, 18KT white gold. Automatic calibre 26-330 S C. Introduced 2022. Successor to the steel 5711, with a blue dial. |
How to spot a fake
- Request a Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives: it confirms the movement and case numbers, the date of manufacture and the date of sale.
- The movement number is engraved on the movement and the case number inside the caseback. Both must agree with the Extract and the reference.
- Check the calibre against the reference: 28-255 C in a 3700/1A, 335 SC in a 3800/1A, 324 SC or 26-330 S C in a 5711/1A. Modern Patek movements carry the Patek Philippe Seal, struck on the movement.
- The horizontally embossed dial pattern should be crisp and evenly graduated, with applied markers precisely aligned and lume evenly filled.
- Look at the bracelet: the links are finely finished with alternating brushed and polished surfaces, and the folding clasp is signed and fits without play.
- The two-part case with side ears should show crisp transitions between brushed and polished surfaces. Soft edges indicate heavy polishing or a reproduction case.
- Original certificate of origin, box and any Patek Philippe service papers should match the case and movement numbers.
How we check a sourced piece
Every Nautilus we source is opened by a watchmaker, who confirms the calibre matches the reference, checks the case and movement numbers and records timing on a timegrapher. We review service history, request a Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives where appropriate and send you detailed photographs and video before you commit to buy. Mozeris Fine Antiques is an independent dealer and is not affiliated with Patek Philippe.
