Available to source

Pre owned Cartier Santos: available to source

Mozeris Fine Antiques sources a pre owned Cartier Santos on request, from 1980s steel and gold Santos Galbée watches to the current Santos de Cartier. First made in 1904 for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Santos has a square case and a bezel set with exposed screws. Tell us the size, metal and movement you want and we will locate an authentic example, inspect it and present it to you in photographs and video before purchase.

History of the Cartier Santos

Louis Cartier designed the Santos in 1904 for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Brazilian aviator, who wanted to read the time in flight without taking his hands from the controls. A pocket watch was impractical in the cockpit, so Cartier created a square wristwatch with a strap, curved to sit flat on the wrist. Cartier offered the Santos commercially from 1911. In 1978 Cartier relaunched the model in steel and 18KT gold with exposed screws on both the bezel and the integrated bracelet, a striking design at the time. It was revised in 1987 as the Santos Galbée, the name meaning curved, with a softer, more rounded case. In 2004, for the hundredth anniversary of the original, Cartier introduced the larger Santos 100, followed by the Santos Galbée XL in 2005. In 2018 the collection was redesigned as the Santos de Cartier, with the bezel flowing into the bracelet, the in-house automatic calibre 1847 MC, the QuickSwitch system for changing straps without tools and the SmartLink system for adjusting the bracelet. Square case, Roman numerals, blued steel hands and a cabochon-set crown remain constant.

Key references

Santos (Carrée)Steel and 18KT gold, with screws on bezel and bracelet. Quartz and automatic versions. Launched in 1978. The model that set the integrated screw-bracelet design.
Santos Galbée ref. 156629 x 41 mm, steel and 18KT gold. Quartz. Made from the late 1980s. The curved Galbée case on an integrated steel and gold bracelet.
Santos Galbée XL ref. 282332 x 45 mm, stainless steel. Automatic calibre 049. Introduced 2005. The enlarged Galbée on an integrated steel bracelet.
Santos 100 ref. 2656Large model, stainless steel. Automatic calibre 049. Introduced 2004 for the centenary. Larger case on a leather strap with a deployant buckle.
Santos de Cartier ref. WSSA001839.8 mm, stainless steel. Automatic calibre 1847 MC. Made from 2018. QuickSwitch interchangeable steel bracelet and calfskin strap, water resistant to 100 metres.

How to spot a fake

  • The caseback should be engraved with the Cartier signature, the reference and an individual serial number, cleanly and evenly; gold cases carry hallmarks.
  • Look at the screws on the bezel and bracelet: they are real screws, evenly aligned and finished. Printed, cast or misaligned screw heads are a warning sign.
  • Many Santos dials carry Cartier's secret signature hidden in one of the Roman numerals, usually the VII or the X, visible under a loupe.
  • The crown is set with a cabochon (blue synthetic spinel or sapphire according to model), cleanly set and well polished.
  • Open the case: the movement must match the reference, quartz in a Galbée 1566, calibre 049 in a Santos 100 or Galbée XL, calibre 1847 MC in a 2018 Santos de Cartier.
  • On 2018 and later models the QuickSwitch push-buttons under the bracelet and the SmartLink adjustment should operate cleanly.
  • Original Cartier box and certificate with matching serial support the watch. Cartier's after-sales service can also inspect a watch and confirm it.

How we check a sourced piece

Every Santos we source is opened by a watchmaker, who confirms the movement matches the reference, checks the case serial and hallmarks and tests timekeeping on a timegrapher or, for quartz, checks the circuit and battery. We review any service history and paperwork and send you detailed photographs and video before you commit to buy. Mozeris Fine Antiques is an independent dealer and is not affiliated with Cartier.

Questions

Is a vintage Santos Galbée a good daily watch?

Yes. The quartz and automatic Galbée models are robust and comfortable, and the integrated bracelet wears close to the wrist. We check bracelet stretch and screw condition, as these show the most wear.

Which size should I choose?

The Galbée and medium Santos de Cartier suit smaller wrists, while the Santos 100, Galbée XL and large Santos de Cartier suit larger ones. We can source several and send comparison photographs.

What should come with a pre-owned Santos?

Ideally the Cartier box, certificate with matching serial, spare links or the second strap supplied with QuickSwitch models, and any service papers.

What affects the value of a pre-owned Santos?

Model, metal, size, movement, the condition of the case and bracelet, the originality of the dial, and box and papers. Two-tone and solid gold examples are assessed carefully for wear on the gold parts.