History of the Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra
Van Cleef & Arpels introduced the Alhambra in 1968. The first piece was a long necklace of twenty clover motifs, each a quatrefoil of hardstone or mother-of-pearl framed in 18KT gold with a fine beaded edge. The four-leaf clover was chosen as a symbol of luck, and the clean, repeated shape suited being worn every day as well as in the evening. The original motif size is now called Vintage Alhambra, and it is the scale used on the classic five-motif bracelet and the ten and twenty-motif necklaces. Van Cleef & Arpels later added Sweet Alhambra, a smaller motif suited to children's and delicate pieces, and Magic Alhambra, which mixes motifs of different sizes, often on long necklaces. Lucky Alhambra combines the clover with other good-luck symbols. The materials have widened over the decades from the early hardstones to include carnelian, turquoise, lapis lazuli, guilloché gold and diamond pavé, in yellow, white and rose gold. Through all of this the motif itself, a four-lobed shape inside a beaded gold border, has stayed the same.
Key references
| Vintage Alhambra bracelet, five motifs | 18KT yellow, white or rose gold with mother-of-pearl, onyx, malachite, carnelian or other stones. The original motif size on a chain bracelet. |
|---|---|
| Vintage Alhambra necklace, ten motifs | 18KT gold with hardstone or mother-of-pearl. The standard length necklace at the original motif size. |
| Vintage Alhambra long necklace, twenty motifs | 18KT gold. The long format of the first Alhambra necklace of 1968, which can be doubled around the neck. |
| Sweet Alhambra | 18KT gold with stones or gold motifs. A smaller motif than Vintage, used on bracelets, pendants and earrings. |
| Magic Alhambra | 18KT gold with mother-of-pearl, onyx and other materials. Mixes motifs of different sizes, often on long necklaces and earrings. |
| Vintage Alhambra pendant and earrings | 18KT gold. A single motif on a chain, or matching ear studs and clips at the original motif size. |
| Lucky Alhambra | 18KT gold with varied stones. Combines the clover with other good-luck motifs on one piece. |
How to spot a fake
- Look for the VCA signature, the Au750 gold mark and a serial number, on most bracelets and necklaces stamped on a small plate or ring close to the clasp. On earrings the marks sit on the clip or post.
- Study the beaded gold border around each motif. It should be tight, even and continuous, with no gaps, flat spots or beads of different sizes.
- Check the stones. Mother-of-pearl shows natural shifting lustre, onyx is an even deep black, and every motif should be set flush with its neighbours and matched in colour.
- Count and measure the motifs. Spacing along the chain should be even, and the motif size must match the line it claims to be: Vintage, Sweet or Magic.
- Examine the clasp and jump rings. They should be neatly finished, with the clasp closing firmly and no rough solder.
- The serial number can be checked with Van Cleef & Arpels. Send them clear photographs of the number, or ask at a boutique.
- Pouch, box and certificate help, but they must match the serial number on the piece. The jewel itself is always checked first.
How we check a sourced piece
Before we recommend a piece we test the metal, read every hallmark and maker's mark under magnification, and check the serial number and its engraving against the model and period it should belong to. You receive a written condition report with detailed photographs and video, so you see the piece exactly as it is before you commit to anything. For Alhambra pieces we also inspect every motif for chips, scratches to the stone and wear to the beaded border. Mozeris Fine Antiques is an independent dealer and is not affiliated with Van Cleef & Arpels.
