History of the Cartier Love bracelet
The Love bracelet was designed in New York in 1969 by Aldo Cipullo, an Italian-born designer working for Cartier. His idea was a bracelet that could not be slipped on and off: a rigid oval in two halves, joined by screws and fitted with a small gold screwdriver, so that one person would lock it onto the wrist of another. The screw heads set around the band became the decoration itself. Cartier launched it in plain yellow gold, and white and rose gold versions followed. Diamond-set Love bracelets were introduced in 1979, adding brilliant-cut stones set into the band in place of some of the screw motifs. Over the following decades the line widened into a narrower small model, the open Love cuff, rings, earrings and necklaces, all carrying the same screw-head pattern. Cartier also redesigned the screw system, so that on current production the screws stay attached to the bracelet when it is opened, while earlier bracelets use screws that come out completely. In September 2025 Cartier introduced Love Unlimited, a more flexible version of the original. The core design, an oval bangle with screw motifs in 18KT gold, has remained in production for more than five decades.
Key references
| Love bracelet, classic width | 18KT yellow, white or rose gold. The original width, with screw motifs all the way round and a matching screwdriver. |
|---|---|
| Love bracelet, small model | 18KT yellow, white or rose gold. A narrower band than the classic, designed for stacking. |
| Love bracelet with diamonds | 18KT gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds, from four stones up to fully paved bands. Diamond-set versions were introduced in 1979. |
| Love cuff | 18KT gold. An open bangle that slips on without a screwdriver, keeping the screw-head decoration. |
| Vintage Love bracelet, 1970s and 1980s | 18KT gold. Uses the earlier screw system, in which both screws unscrew completely to open the bracelet. |
| Love Unlimited | 18KT gold. Introduced by Cartier in September 2025 as a more flexible version of the original bangle. |
How to spot a fake
- Inside the band look for the Cartier signature, the 750 or Au750 gold mark, the size and a unique serial number. Engraving should be crisp, evenly spaced and cut to a consistent depth.
- Match the screw system to the serial number. Earlier bracelets have screws that come out completely; current production keeps the screws attached. A mismatch between screw type and period is a warning sign.
- Open and close the bracelet with the screwdriver. The screws should turn smoothly without grinding, and the two halves should meet flush with no gap or step.
- Check the weight on calibrated scales. A genuine bracelet is solid 18KT gold, and a light or hollow-feeling bracelet needs further testing.
- Compare the screw heads around the band. On a genuine piece the slots are cleanly cut, evenly spaced and the motifs are identical in size.
- A UK hallmark is a useful extra check: gold articles over 1 gram offered for sale in the UK must be hallmarked by a UK assay office, so a bracelet bought new in Britain will carry one alongside the Cartier marks.
- Box, screwdriver, certificate and receipt add confidence, but they are copied too. Paperwork must match the serial number on the bracelet, and the bracelet itself is always checked first.
How we check a sourced piece
Before we recommend a piece we test the metal, read every hallmark and maker's mark under magnification, and check the serial number and its engraving against the model and period it should belong to. You receive a written condition report with detailed photographs and video, so you see the piece exactly as it is before you commit to anything. For a Love bracelet we also confirm the screw system matches the serial number era and that the screwdriver closes it correctly. Mozeris Fine Antiques is an independent dealer and is not affiliated with Cartier.
