History of the Cartier Juste un Clou
Juste un Clou began as a design by Aldo Cipullo for Cartier in New York in 1971, two years after his Love bracelet. Cipullo took the most ordinary object in a hardware shop, a nail, and bent it around the wrist in gold so that the head and the point sit side by side. The design suited the New York of the early 1970s, where everyday industrial objects were turning up in art and fashion. After its first run the piece left the Cartier catalogue. In 2012, for the 165th anniversary of the house, Cartier relaunched it under the name Juste un Clou, alongside the exhibition Cartier and Aldo Cipullo, New York City in the 70s at the Cartier Mansion on Fifth Avenue. The relaunched line was made in 18KT yellow, rose and white gold, with diamond-paved versions. It has since grown into a small model bracelet, rings, earrings, necklaces and cufflinks, and in 2017 Cartier added a Torque necklace in the same nail form.
Key references
| Juste un Clou bracelet, classic model | 18KT yellow, rose or white gold. The full-size nail bangle with head and point meeting at the front. |
|---|---|
| Juste un Clou bracelet, small model | 18KT gold. A narrower nail designed to sit closer to the wrist and stack with other bracelets. |
| Juste un Clou bracelet with diamonds | 18KT gold with brilliant-cut diamonds paved along the nail or set in the head. |
| Juste un Clou ring | 18KT gold, plain or with diamonds. The nail wrapped around the finger. |
| Juste un Clou earrings and necklace | 18KT gold. Nail hoops, studs and pendants, and the Torque necklace added in 2017. |
| 1970s Cipullo design for Cartier | 18KT gold. The original run of the nail design from the early 1970s, before the 2012 relaunch. |
How to spot a fake
- Look on the inside of the bracelet for the Cartier signature, the 750 or Au750 mark, the size and a serial number. Engraving should be clean and evenly spaced.
- Examine the nail head and point. On a genuine piece the head has crisp, even facets and the point is sharp and well finished, with the two ends aligned.
- Check the hinge and clasp. The bracelet should open and close smoothly, with the join barely visible when closed.
- Weigh the piece. Juste un Clou is solid 18KT gold, and a light or hollow-feeling bracelet needs further testing.
- On diamond-set pieces the stones should be evenly matched and securely set along the shaft.
- Box and certificate must match the serial number on the bracelet. The piece itself is always checked first.
How we check a sourced piece
Before we recommend a piece we test the metal, read every hallmark and maker's mark under magnification, and check the serial number and its engraving against the model and period it should belong to. You receive a written condition report with detailed photographs and video, so you see the piece exactly as it is before you commit to anything. For Juste un Clou we also check the hinge and clasp action and look for any distortion of the nail shape. Mozeris Fine Antiques is an independent dealer and is not affiliated with Cartier.