History of the Bulgari Tubogas
Tubogas takes its name from the flexible gas pipes of the industrial age. Bulgari used the technique in jewellery from the late 1940s: long strips of gold are wound tightly around a core, without soldering, to make a supple, rounded band that springs back into shape. The first famous use was the Serpenti bracelet watch of 1948. In the 1970s Bulgari brought Tubogas back as a signature, using it on watches, bracelets, necklaces and rings, often in combinations of yellow, white and rose gold, or gold with steel. Tubogas chokers were also set with ancient coins under the Monete name. Bulgari launched the Bvlgari Bvlgari watch in 1977, and the Bvlgari Bvlgari Tubogas watch joins that case to a Tubogas bracelet. The technique remains in the collection today, and Bulgari has revisited archival designs, including a 1974 cuff that inspired the Tubogas Manchette. Vintage Tubogas pieces from the 1970s and 1980s are recognised by their tight, even coils and heavy gold construction.
Key references
| Tubogas bangle and cuff | 18KT gold, single or mixed colour golds. The coiled band as an open or closed bracelet. |
|---|---|
| Tubogas choker and necklace | 18KT gold, sometimes combined with steel. A rigid coiled collar. |
| Monete Tubogas necklace | 18KT gold set with ancient coins. Coins mounted on a Tubogas choker. |
| Bvlgari Bvlgari Tubogas watch | 18KT gold, steel, or steel and gold. The Bvlgari Bvlgari case on a Tubogas bracelet. |
| Serpenti Tubogas watch | 18KT gold, steel, or steel and gold. The coiled snake bracelet watch, in single or multiple wraps. |
| Tubogas ring | 18KT gold. The coiled band reduced to ring size, often in two or three colours of gold. |
How to spot a fake
- Look for the BVLGARI signature, written with a V in place of the U, and the 750 gold mark, with a serial number on later pieces. Engraving should be sharp and evenly spaced.
- Study the coils. On a genuine piece they are tight, even and smooth, with no gaps, kinks or visible solder joins.
- Flex the band gently. Tubogas springs back into shape; a stiff or crackling band needs checking.
- Check the end caps and clasp. They should be cleanly finished and firmly attached to the coil.
- On watches, the case number, dial and movement must all suit the reference and match the papers.
- Weigh the piece. Tubogas is solid gold or steel construction, and a light gold piece needs further testing.
How we check a sourced piece
Before we recommend a piece we test the metal, read every hallmark and maker's mark under magnification, and check the serial number and its engraving against the model and period it should belong to. You receive a written condition report with detailed photographs and video, so you see the piece exactly as it is before you commit to anything. For Tubogas we also inspect the full length of the coil for dents and stretching, and test any watch for timekeeping. Mozeris Fine Antiques is an independent dealer and is not affiliated with Bulgari.
