Guide · Watches

Rolex Explorer, Milgauss, Sea-Dweller, Yacht-Master and Air-King

The Rolex tool watches beyond the Submariner, GMT-Master and Daytona: what each was made for, the key references and what collectors look for.

By the Mozeris specialistsUpdated 4 min read

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II 216570 Box & Papers
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II 216570 Box & Papers, a piece that has passed through our hands

The short answer

The Explorer is Rolex's mountaineering tool watch, introduced in 1953, the year Rolex supplied the Everest expedition of Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. It has a plain black dial with 3, 6 and 9 numerals, an Oyster case and a self-winding movement. Classic references include the 1016, the 14270 of 1989 to 2001 and the 114270.

  • Explorer 1953, Milgauss 1956, Sea-Dweller 1967, Explorer II 1971, Yacht-Master 1992; Air-King since 1945.
  • The Explorer went to 39 mm in 2010 and is now made in 36 and 40 mm.
  • Milgauss discontinued in 2023; Deepsea rated to 3,900 metres.

Explorer and Explorer II

What is the Rolex Explorer?

The Explorer is Rolex's mountaineering tool watch, introduced in 1953, the year Rolex supplied the Everest expedition of Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. It has a plain black dial with 3, 6 and 9 numerals, an Oyster case and a self-winding movement. Classic references include the 1016, the 14270 of 1989 to 2001 and the 114270.

What sizes does the Rolex Explorer come in?

For most of its history the Explorer was 36 mm. In 2010 Rolex enlarged it to 39 mm, made until 2021, when Rolex returned to 36 mm and added a steel and gold version. Since 2023 the Explorer has been offered in 36 mm and 40 mm. The Explorer II is larger again: 40 mm, then 42 mm from 2011.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II 216570 Box & Papers
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer II 216570 Box & Papers, a piece that has passed through our hands

The Explorer II 216570

The 42 mm 216570 brought back the orange 24-hour hand of the first Explorer II, with a white or black dial.

Sources: Wikipedia, Rolex Explorer. Ian Fleming, author of the Bond novels, wore an Explorer 1016.

What are the key features of the Rolex Explorer II?

The Explorer II, introduced in 1971, adds a fixed 24-hour bezel and an independent 24-hour hand, so cave explorers and polar teams could tell day from night. The first reference was the 1655 with an orange hand. The 16570 had black or white dials, and the 42 mm 216570 of 2011 restored the orange hand.

Milgauss

Are there different versions of the Rolex Milgauss?

Yes. The original Milgauss, reference 6541 of 1956, was tested by CERN to resist 1,000 gauss. Rolex revived the model in 2007 as reference 116400 with black or white dials, and the 116400GV with a green-tinted sapphire crystal and an orange lightning-bolt seconds hand, later with a blue dial. Rolex discontinued the Milgauss in 2023.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Milgauss Stainless Steel Wristwatch, Ref.116400GV, 2014
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Milgauss Stainless Steel Wristwatch, Ref.116400GV, 2014, a piece that has passed through our hands

The green crystal

The 116400GV's green-tinted sapphire crystal (GV for glace verte) and orange seconds hand made it the most recognisable modern Milgauss (Wikipedia).

The Milgauss also appears in our Rolex sports models guide.

Send us photos of your Rolex

Sea-Dweller, Deepsea and Yacht-Master

What is the Rolex Sea-Dweller?

The Sea-Dweller is Rolex's professional saturation diving watch, developed in 1967 and on sale from 1971 as reference 1665. Its helium escape valve releases gas absorbed during long dives in pressurised chambers. Later models are rated to 1,220 metres; since 2017 they have a 43 mm case, with a steel and yellow gold version from 2019.

What is the Rolex Deepsea?

The Deepsea is the extreme-depth Sea-Dweller, rated to 3,900 metres, with Rolex's Ringlock case system. A blue and black D-Blue dial version, released in 2014, honours James Cameron's dive to the Challenger Deep in 2012. The Deepsea has no Cyclops date lens. The Deepsea Challenge of 2022 is rated deeper still.

Source: Wikipedia, Rolex Sea-Dweller.

What is the Rolex Yacht-Master?

The Yacht-Master, introduced in 1992 as reference 16628 in 18KT yellow gold, is Rolex's sailing watch, based on the Submariner with a raised bidirectional bezel. In 2015 the Everose gold Yacht-Master became the first Rolex on a rubber Oysterflex bracelet. The Yacht-Master II adds a regatta countdown chronograph.

Source: Wikipedia, Rolex Yacht-Master.

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Air-King

What is the Rolex Air-King?

The Air-King, introduced in 1945, is Rolex's aviation-themed time-only watch, made for decades in small 34 mm or smaller cases. After a break from 2014, Rolex relaunched it in 2016 as the 40 mm 116900, sharing the Milgauss case, with a dial inspired by the Bloodhound land speed record car. The 126900 followed in 2022.

Rolex 9KT yellow gold Oyster Perpetual Air King Precision
Rolex 9KT yellow gold Oyster Perpetual Air King Precision, a piece that has passed through our hands

The small Air-Kings

Earlier Air-Kings were simple time-only Oysters, often marked Precision, and some were made in gold, like this 9KT example (Wikipedia).

Value and selling

What drives the value of a Rolex Explorer or Sea-Dweller?

The reference and its production run come first, then originality: the dial, hands and bezel the watch left the factory with. Unpolished cases, matching box and papers and a known service history add more. Early references such as the Explorer 1016, Explorer II 1655 and Sea-Dweller 1665 are the most collected.

Check a watch first with how to tell if a Rolex is real, and read our Rolex value guide.

Where can I sell a Rolex Explorer, Milgauss or Sea-Dweller?

Send photographs of the dial, the side, the case back and the papers to a specialist for a free valuation. We buy Rolex tool watches of every age from anywhere in the UK: post by Royal Mail Special Delivery or free insured FedEx collection, or visit our Mayfair or Braintree office by appointment. Payment is by bank transfer.

Free valuation

Every Rolex is different. Send us a few photos and we will tell you what yours is worth, free and with no obligation. Request a free valuation.

Read sell your Rolex watch or browse Rolex watches in stock.

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Sources

Questions

What is the Rolex Explorer?

The Explorer is Rolex's mountaineering tool watch, introduced in 1953, the year Rolex supplied the Everest expedition of Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. It has a plain black dial with 3, 6 and 9 numerals, an Oyster case and a self-winding movement. Classic references include the 1016, the 14270 of 1989 to 2001 and the 114270.

What sizes does the Rolex Explorer come in?

For most of its history the Explorer was 36 mm. In 2010 Rolex enlarged it to 39 mm, made until 2021, when Rolex returned to 36 mm and added a steel and gold version. Since 2023 the Explorer has been offered in 36 mm and 40 mm. The Explorer II is larger again: 40 mm, then 42 mm from 2011.

What are the key features of the Rolex Explorer II?

The Explorer II, introduced in 1971, adds a fixed 24-hour bezel and an independent 24-hour hand, so cave explorers and polar teams could tell day from night. The first reference was the 1655 with an orange hand. The 16570 had black or white dials, and the 42 mm 216570 of 2011 restored the orange hand.

Are there different versions of the Rolex Milgauss?

Yes. The original Milgauss, reference 6541 of 1956, was tested by CERN to resist 1,000 gauss. Rolex revived the model in 2007 as reference 116400 with black or white dials, and the 116400GV with a green-tinted sapphire crystal and an orange lightning-bolt seconds hand, later with a blue dial. Rolex discontinued the Milgauss in 2023.

What is the Rolex Sea-Dweller?

The Sea-Dweller is Rolex's professional saturation diving watch, developed in 1967 and on sale from 1971 as reference 1665. Its helium escape valve releases gas absorbed during long dives in pressurised chambers. Later models are rated to 1,220 metres; since 2017 they have a 43 mm case, with a steel and yellow gold version from 2019.

What is the Rolex Deepsea?

The Deepsea is the extreme-depth Sea-Dweller, rated to 3,900 metres, with Rolex's Ringlock case system. A blue and black D-Blue dial version, released in 2014, honours James Cameron's dive to the Challenger Deep in 2012. The Deepsea has no Cyclops date lens. The Deepsea Challenge of 2022 is rated deeper still.

What is the Rolex Yacht-Master?

The Yacht-Master, introduced in 1992 as reference 16628 in 18KT yellow gold, is Rolex's sailing watch, based on the Submariner with a raised bidirectional bezel. In 2015 the Everose gold Yacht-Master became the first Rolex on a rubber Oysterflex bracelet. The Yacht-Master II adds a regatta countdown chronograph.

What is the Rolex Air-King?

The Air-King, introduced in 1945, is Rolex's aviation-themed time-only watch, made for decades in small 34 mm or smaller cases. After a break from 2014, Rolex relaunched it in 2016 as the 40 mm 116900, sharing the Milgauss case, with a dial inspired by the Bloodhound land speed record car. The 126900 followed in 2022.

What drives the value of a Rolex Explorer or Sea-Dweller?

The reference and its production run come first, then originality: the dial, hands and bezel the watch left the factory with. Unpolished cases, matching box and papers and a known service history add more. Early references such as the Explorer 1016, Explorer II 1655 and Sea-Dweller 1665 are the most collected.

Where can I sell a Rolex Explorer, Milgauss or Sea-Dweller?

Send photographs of the dial, the side, the case back and the papers to a specialist for a free valuation. We buy Rolex tool watches of every age from anywhere in the UK: post by Royal Mail Special Delivery or free insured FedEx collection, or visit our Mayfair or Braintree office by appointment. Payment is by bank transfer.