Rolex Datejust: Sizes, References, Dials and Bracelets Explained

What is the Rolex Datejust?

The Datejust, launched in 1945 for Rolex's 40th anniversary as reference 4467, was the first self-winding chronometer wristwatch with a date that changes automatically at midnight. The first was 18KT yellow gold with a fluted bezel and the new Jubilee bracelet, named for the anniversary. It is Rolex's classic everyday watch.

What sizes does the Rolex Datejust come in?

The original Datejust was 36 mm. Rolex later added ladies' and mid-size versions, the 41 mm Datejust II in 2009 and the Datejust 41 in 2016, which has a thinner bezel and smaller markers than the Datejust II. The current range runs 28, 31, 34, 36 and 41 mm, in steel, Rolesor and gold.

The classic 36 mm

The 1601, made from the late 1950s to the late 1970s, is the classic vintage Datejust: 36 mm, a fluted bezel and an acrylic crystal. Vintage gold references are covered in our vintage gold Rolex guide.

Are Rolex Datejust watches automatic?

Yes. Every Datejust is a self-winding mechanical watch, wound by the Perpetual rotor as you wear it, and can also be wound by the crown. Modern men's Datejusts use calibre 3235, which replaced the long-running calibre 3135, and recent ladies' models use calibre 2236. A Datejust needs no battery.

Source: Wikipedia, Rolex Datejust.

What is the Rolex Datejust 16013?

The 16013 is the steel and 18KT yellow gold Datejust of about 1977 to 1988, with a fluted gold bezel, usually on a Jubilee bracelet, and one of the first Datejusts with a quickset date. It replaced the 1601, which had no quickset and an acrylic crystal, and was followed by the 16233 with a sapphire crystal.

How much white gold is in a Rolex Datejust?

On a steel Datejust with a fluted bezel, the bezel is 18KT white gold; Rolex calls this combination White Rolesor. The case and bracelet are steel. Full white gold Datejusts were also made. A two-tone Datejust is steel with yellow or Everose gold. Value depends on the model and condition, not the gold weight alone.

What is the difference between the Jubilee and President bracelets?

The Jubilee is a five-link bracelet introduced with the Datejust in 1945 and made in steel, Rolesor and gold. The President is a three-link bracelet with semicircular links, made only in gold or platinum, designed for the Day-Date and used on some gold Lady-Datejusts. The Oyster is the flat three-link sports bracelet.

Lady-Datejust

Ladies' Datejusts were made in 26 mm for decades, replaced by a 28 mm model with calibre 2236 in 2015. Factory gem-set versions carry Rolex's own diamonds and stones.

How do you change the date on a Rolex Datejust?

Unscrew the crown, pull it out to the first position and turn it to move the date on quickset models, made from the late 1970s. Avoid setting the date in the late evening or early morning, when the date mechanism is engaged. Pull to the second position to set the time, then push in and screw the crown down.

Can a Rolex Datejust go in water?

Yes. A modern Datejust is water resistant to 100 metres with its crown screwed down, so it can be worn for swimming. The rating depends on intact seals, so have them tested at each service. A vintage Datejust should be pressure-tested by a watchmaker before it goes near water.

What is a Rolex Datejust 41 Wimbledon?

Wimbledon is the collectors' name for a Datejust with a slate grey dial and Roman numerals outlined in green. The dial first appeared on the Datejust II in 2009 and was then offered on the Datejust 41 from 2016 and on 36 mm models. Rolex does not use the name; slate dials with black numerals are a different dial.

Datejust II

The 41 mm Datejust II of 2009 was the first large Datejust, with a broad bezel and large markers. The Datejust 41 replaced it in 2016 (Wikipedia; Bob's Watches).

More nicknamed Rolex dials in our Rolex sports models guide.

Where can I sell a Rolex Datejust?

Send photographs of the dial, the side, the case back and the papers to a specialist for a free valuation. We buy Datejusts of every age from anywhere in the UK: post by Royal Mail Special Delivery or free insured FedEx collection, or visit our Mayfair or Braintree office by appointment. Payment is by bank transfer.

Check it first with how to tell if a Rolex is real, read sell your Rolex watch, or browse Rolex watches in stock.