History of the Rolex Submariner
Rolex introduced the Submariner in 1953 as the first divers' wristwatch waterproof to a depth of 100 metres, and presented it to the public at the Basel watch fair in 1954. It combined the Oyster case with a rotating graduated bezel that let a diver track elapsed time underwater, and luminous hands and markers for legibility in the dark. Depth ratings rose quickly: 200 metres by the end of the 1950s and 300 metres from 1979. Crown guards arrived around 1959, and the reference 5513 of 1962 became the long-running no-date model. The first Submariner with a date, reference 1680, followed in 1969, bringing the Cyclops lens to the dive watch. In the late 1980s the 16610 introduced a sapphire crystal and calibre 3135, and in 2003 Rolex marked the model's fiftieth anniversary with the green-bezel 16610LV. The 116610LN of 2010 moved to the scratch-resistant Cerachrom ceramic bezel and a broader case, and in 2020 Rolex enlarged the Submariner to 41 mm with calibres 3230 (no date) and 3235 (date). The Submariner is made in Oystersteel, Rolesor and 18KT gold, and all modern models carry the Triplock crown.
Key references
| Ref. 5513 | 40 mm, stainless steel. Calibre 1520, then 1530. Made from 1962 to 1989. The long-running no-date Submariner with an acrylic crystal. |
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| Ref. 1680 | 40 mm, stainless steel (also 18KT gold as 1680/8). Calibre 1575. Introduced 1969. The first Submariner with a date and Cyclops lens. |
| Ref. 16610 | 40 mm, stainless steel. Calibre 3135. Made from 1988 to 2010. Sapphire crystal, aluminium bezel insert and Triplock crown. |
| Ref. 16610LV | 40 mm, stainless steel. Calibre 3135. Made from 2003 to 2010. The fiftieth anniversary model with a green aluminium bezel. |
| Ref. 16613 | 40 mm, Rolesor (steel and 18KT yellow gold). Calibre 3135. Made from the late 1980s to 2009. Gold bezel and centre links, in black or blue. |
| Ref. 116610LN | 40 mm, Oystersteel. Calibre 3135. Made from 2010 to 2020. Cerachrom ceramic bezel, broader lugs and Glidelock clasp. |
| Ref. 126610LN | 41 mm, Oystersteel. Calibre 3235. Made from 2020. 70 hour power reserve and slimmer lugs than the 116610LN. |
| Ref. 124060 | 41 mm, Oystersteel. Calibre 3230. Made from 2020. The current no-date Submariner, with no Cyclops lens. |
How to spot a fake
- The reference number is engraved between the lugs at 12 o'clock and, on older watches, the serial between the lugs at 6 o'clock. Engravings should be deep and crisp.
- From the late 2000s the serial number is engraved on the rehaut at 6 o'clock within a repeating ROLEX inscription aligned precisely with the minute markers.
- On date models the Cyclops magnifies the date about two and a half times and sits centred over the window.
- The Triplock crown shows three dots beneath the coronet. A Twinlock crown on a model that should have Triplock is a sign of replaced parts.
- The bezel must rotate in one direction only, with 120 clicks on modern references, and the zero marker luminous pip should sit precisely at 12.
- Open the case: the calibre must match the reference, for example 1530 in a 5513, 3135 in a 16610, 3235 in a 126610LN.
- Clasps carry a stamped code and bracelet reference; on the 16610 the 93150 bracelet with 501B end links is correct. Mismatched codes point to a replaced bracelet.
- The guarantee papers or warranty card should carry the same serial number as the case.
How we check a sourced piece
Every watch we source is opened and its movement inspected by a watchmaker, who confirms the calibre matches the reference and checks the case serial against the period of production. We record timing on a timegrapher, review any service history and paperwork, and send you detailed photographs and video before you commit to buy. Mozeris Fine Antiques is an independent dealer and is not affiliated with Rolex.
