History of the Rolex Day-Date
Rolex introduced the Day-Date in 1956. It was the first wristwatch to display the day of the week spelt out in full in an arc at 12 o'clock, alongside the date at 3 o'clock under a Cyclops lens. From the start it was made only in precious metal, 18KT gold or platinum, and was paired with a new semi-circular three-link bracelet that Rolex named the President. Through the 1960s and 1970s the reference 1803 and its siblings, running on calibres 1555 and 1556, defined the 36 mm Day-Date. In the late 1970s the 18038 introduced calibre 3055 with a quickset date and a sapphire crystal, and in 1988 the 18238 moved to calibre 3155, which allowed the day and the date to be set independently. Rolex later offered the day in a range of languages, chosen at purchase. In 2008 the Day-Date II enlarged the case to 41 mm with calibre 3156, and in 2015 Rolex replaced it with the Day-Date 40, powered by calibre 3255 with the Chronergy escapement and a 70 hour power reserve. Across all generations the Day-Date has been offered with fluted, smooth and gem-set bezels and a wide range of dials, from champagne and silver to hardstone.
Key references
| Ref. 1803 | 36 mm, 18KT yellow, white or rose gold. Calibre 1555, then 1556. Made from the early 1960s to the late 1970s. Acrylic crystal, fluted bezel; the date and day change without quickset. |
|---|---|
| Ref. 18038 | 36 mm, 18KT yellow gold. Calibre 3055. Made from the late 1970s to 1988. Introduced the quickset date and a sapphire crystal. |
| Ref. 18238 | 36 mm, 18KT yellow gold. Calibre 3155. Made from 1988 to about 2000. Independent setting of both day and date. |
| Ref. 118238 | 36 mm, 18KT yellow gold. Calibre 3155. Made from about 2000 to 2019. Solid end links and a polished bezel option alongside fluted. |
| Ref. 218238 (Day-Date II) | 41 mm, 18KT yellow gold. Calibre 3156. Made from 2008 to 2015. Broader case and bezel, with Parachrom hairspring. |
| Ref. 228238 (Day-Date 40) | 40 mm, 18KT yellow gold. Calibre 3255. Made from 2015. Chronergy escapement and 70 hour power reserve. |
| Ref. 128238 | 36 mm, 18KT yellow gold. Calibre 3255. Made from 2019. The 36 mm Day-Date updated with the current movement. |
How to spot a fake
- A Day-Date is never made in steel. A steel or gold-plated case presented as a Day-Date is not genuine.
- The reference is engraved between the lugs at 12 o'clock and, on older pieces, the serial at 6 o'clock. Later pieces carry the serial on the rehaut within the repeating ROLEX inscription.
- Inside the caseback and on the lugs, gold cases carry gold standard marks and, for watches imported to the UK, the appropriate hallmarks.
- The day should change in one jump close to midnight, centred in its arc window, and the spelling and font must match the language disc fitted.
- The Cyclops magnifies the date about two and a half times and sits centred over the window.
- Open the case: 1556 in an 1803, 3055 in an 18038, 3155 in an 18238, 3255 in a 228238.
- President bracelets have a concealed Crownclasp and carry a reference and code; the bracelet must be solid gold of the same colour as the case.
- Papers or warranty card should carry the matching serial number.
How we check a sourced piece
Every watch we source is opened and its movement inspected by a watchmaker, who confirms the calibre matches the reference and checks the case serial against the period of production. We record timing on a timegrapher, review any service history and paperwork, and send you detailed photographs and video before you commit to buy. Mozeris Fine Antiques is an independent dealer and is not affiliated with Rolex.