History of the Rolex Datejust
Rolex launched the Datejust in 1945 to mark the company's fortieth anniversary. Reference 4467 combined three things Rolex had already developed separately: the waterproof Oyster case of 1926, the Perpetual self-winding rotor of 1931 and a chronometer-certified movement. To these it added a date shown through an aperture at 3 o'clock, a first for a self-winding chronometer wristwatch. The five-link Jubilee bracelet was created for the launch, and the fluted bezel became part of the model's identity. In the early 1950s Rolex added the Cyclops lens over the date, which magnifies the numeral for easier reading. Through the 1960s and 1970s the reference 1601 and its siblings, running on calibres 1560 and 1570, set the 36 mm template that most buyers still picture today. The quickset date arrived in the late 1970s with calibre 3035, followed by calibre 3135 and sapphire crystals in the late 1980s. Rolex introduced the 41 mm Datejust II in 2009 and replaced it with the Datejust 41 in 2017, fitted with calibre 3235 and its 70 hour power reserve. Today the line spans 28, 31, 36 and 41 mm cases in Oystersteel, Rolesor (steel and gold) and solid 18KT gold.
Key references
| Ref. 1601 | 36 mm, Oystersteel with 18KT white gold fluted bezel (also Rolesor and solid gold). Calibre 1560, then 1570. Made from about 1960 to the late 1970s. The classic vintage Datejust with an acrylic crystal and no quickset date. |
|---|---|
| Ref. 16014 | 36 mm, Oystersteel with 18KT white gold fluted bezel. Calibre 3035. Made from the late 1970s to 1988. Introduced the quickset date, so the date changes independently of the hands. |
| Ref. 16234 | 36 mm, Oystersteel with 18KT white gold fluted bezel. Calibre 3135. Made from 1988 to the mid 2000s. Sapphire crystal and a movement that is still widely serviced. |
| Ref. 116234 | 36 mm, Oystersteel with 18KT white gold fluted bezel. Calibre 3135. Made from the mid 2000s to 2018. Solid end links and a heavier Oyster or Jubilee bracelet. |
| Ref. 126234 | 36 mm, Oystersteel with 18KT white gold fluted bezel. Calibre 3235. Made from 2018. 70 hour power reserve and Chronergy escapement. |
| Ref. 116300 (Datejust II) | 41 mm, Oystersteel with smooth bezel. Calibre 3136. Introduced 2009 and replaced by the Datejust 41. Broader bezel and larger hour markers than the later 41 mm model. |
| Ref. 126300 (Datejust 41) | 41 mm, Oystersteel with smooth bezel. Calibre 3235. Made from 2017. A slimmer bezel and finer lugs than the Datejust II. |
How to spot a fake
- The reference number is engraved between the lugs at 12 o'clock and, on older watches, the serial number between the lugs at 6 o'clock. Engravings should be crisp and deep, never shallow or acid etched.
- From the late 2000s Rolex engraves the serial number on the rehaut (the inner bezel ring) at 6 o'clock, surrounded by a repeating ROLEX inscription that lines up precisely with the minute markers.
- The Cyclops lens magnifies the date about two and a half times, so the numeral fills the lens. Weak magnification or an off-centre date is a warning sign.
- Modern crystals carry a tiny laser-etched Rolex coronet just above 6 o'clock, visible only at an angle under a loupe.
- The Oyster caseback is plain and solid. A display back on a Datejust is not original.
- Open the case: the calibre number should match the reference (1570 for a 1601, 3135 for a 16234, 3235 for a 126234), with Rolex finishing and the correct gold-coloured reversing wheels on modern calibres.
- Bracelet clasps carry a stamped code and the bracelet reference. These should match the period of the case and the end links should sit flush against the lugs.
- Original guarantee papers, and on modern pieces the warranty card, should carry the same serial number as the case.
How we check a sourced piece
Every watch we source is opened and its movement inspected by a watchmaker, who confirms the calibre matches the reference and checks the case serial against the period of production. We record timing on a timegrapher, review any service history and paperwork, and send you detailed photographs and video before you commit to buy. Mozeris Fine Antiques is an independent dealer and is not affiliated with Rolex.

