Antique Diamond Rings

Old mine, old European and rose cut diamonds

Before electric cutting wheels, diamonds were shaped by hand to keep as much weight as possible. The rose cut, flat underneath with a domed, faceted top, was used from the 16th century and is common in Georgian and early Victorian rings. The old mine cut, cushion shaped with a high crown, a small table and an open culet visible as a small circle through the top, dominated the 18th and 19th centuries. The old European cut, round with a high crown, followed from about 1890 to 1930. The modern round brilliant, with proportions worked out in 1919, took over after the 1930s. Old cuts show broad flashes of light; brilliants show fine, even sparkle.

Diamond rings by period

Victorian diamond rings are mostly yellow gold, with silver tops on early pieces to whiten the stones. Edwardian rings are platinum or platinum on gold, light and pierced, with millegrain edges. Art Deco rings use platinum, geometric shapes and baguette or calibré stones beside the centre. Post-war rings return to yellow gold and brilliant cuts; 1970s rings are often bold, textured and set with many small diamonds.

Reading an antique diamond

Diamonds are graded on colour (D is colourless), clarity, cut and carat weight. Old cuts were not made to modern proportions, so a warm, slightly tinted old mine diamond can look livelier by candlelight than a whiter stone. Small chips around the girdle are common on old diamonds that have been worn for a century; they are noted on the listing. Where a diamond has a laboratory report, the listing gives it; otherwise the weights and grades are careful estimates.

Metal and wear

Platinum holds claws securely and does not wear thin quickly, which is why it became the standard for diamond rings from about 1900. Older gold claws may need re-tipping; a jeweller can do this without changing the ring's character.