Guide to Edwardian Jewellery (1901–1915)
Guide to Edwardian Jewellery (1901–1915): Platinum Lace, Millegrain & Garland Elegance
Quick Answer
Edwardian jewellery (c. 1901–1915) is defined by platinum over gold mounts, millegrain borders, delicate filigree, and graceful garland motifs of bows, swags, and laurel wreaths. Expect old-cut diamonds, natural pearls, and fine sapphires set in lace-like designs that feel almost weightless on the skin. Authentic Edwardian pieces are light yet strong thanks to platinum; they often feature knife-edge bars, pierced galleries, and tiny bead-like edges around stones. If your ring, brooch, or necklace combines platinum, old-cut stones, millegrain, and ultra-fine openwork, it’s very likely Edwardian or early 20th century and can carry strong collector value.
Key Takeaways
- Edwardian jewellery marks the high point of platinum craftsmanship – light, lace-like pieces that would be impossible in gold alone.
- Look for millegrain edges, garland and bow motifs, old European cut diamonds, and natural pearls as core hallmarks of the style.
- Most fine Edwardian jewels are made in platinum over 18ct gold; platinum-only mounts become more common just before World War I.
- Common forms include engagement rings, garland necklaces, drop earrings, sautoirs, and bow brooches.
- Condition and originality matter: untouched filigree, original pearls and diamonds, and intact millegrain significantly increase value.
- Buying through a specialist dealer like Mozeris Fine Antiques ensures authentic period pieces rather than modern reproductions.
Table of Contents
- What Is Edwardian Jewellery?
- Key Characteristics of Edwardian Jewellery
- Popular Edwardian Jewellery Styles
- Gemstones & Metals in Edwardian Pieces
- How to Identify Authentic Edwardian Jewellery
- Edwardian vs Victorian vs Art Deco
- Buying Tips: How to Choose Edwardian Jewellery
- Selling & Valuing Edwardian Jewellery
- Frequently Asked Questions
What Is Edwardian Jewellery?
Edwardian jewellery refers to pieces made during the reign of King Edward VII (1901–1910) and the years immediately following, up to the outbreak of the First World War in 1914–1915. It is the last truly “courtly” jewellery style – light, romantic and aristocratic – before the sharp geometry of the Art Deco era. The look is all about refined luxury: platinum lace set with diamonds and pearls, worn at grand balls, royal events, and fashionable London and Paris salons.
Advances in metallurgy allowed jewellers to work with platinum in ways that were impossible earlier in the 19th century. Platinum’s strength meant mountings could be made amazingly thin while still securely holding diamonds and pearls. This created a “frosted” appearance – diamonds floating in air – that defines true Edwardian elegance.
Flatlay of authentic Edwardian jewellery from the Mozeris collection – note the delicate platinum work and light, airy designs.
Key Characteristics of Edwardian Jewellery
Several visual and technical features immediately signal that a piece is Edwardian rather than late Victorian or Art Deco. When assessing a ring, brooch or necklace, look closely at the following details.
1. Platinum Filigree & Pierced Work
Edwardian jewellers took full advantage of platinum’s strength to create intricate openwork – pierced scrolls, scrolls, and lace-like patterns cut directly into the metal. Under magnification, you’ll see fine “threads” of metal weaving in and out, often with tiny diamonds set along the design.
Edwardian platinum filigree work — impossibly fine openwork that remains strong thanks to platinum’s unique properties.
2. Millegrain: The Edwardian Finishing Touch
Millegrain (or milgrain) refers to the tiny beaded border punched along the edges of settings and bands. Under a loupe, this appears as a row of microscopic pearls of metal framing each stone and line of metal. Millegrain softens the sparkle of diamonds and gives Edwardian jewels their unmistakable “frosted” look.
Millegrain edging — the classic Edwardian signature, visible as tiny beaded borders around stones and along platinum edges.
3. Garland, Bow & Wreath Motifs
Influenced by 18th-century French Neo-Classical design and the garland style of Cartier, Edwardian jewellery is full of swags, ribbons, bows, laurel wreaths, and floral garlands. These motifs are usually arranged symmetrically and often accented with natural pearls and old-cut diamonds.
Garland-style Edwardian necklace with diamond swags and natural pearls – a textbook example of early 20th-century courtly elegance.
4. Lightness & Comfort
Despite their size, genuine Edwardian pieces feel surprisingly light when worn. Filigree and piercing remove excess metal, so necklaces, tiaras and large brooches sit comfortably for hours – essential for evening wear. This effervescent lightness is part of the charm and a key difference from the heavier gold pieces of the Victorian era.
Popular Edwardian Jewellery Styles
Below are some of the most recognisable Edwardian jewellery types you’re likely to encounter, whether browsing auctions, visiting dealers, or sorting through a family jewellery box.
Edwardian Engagement Rings
Edwardian engagement rings typically feature old European cut or old mine cut diamonds in airy platinum settings. Designs include solitaire rings with pierced shoulders, cluster rings, and navette (marquise-shaped) panels covered in diamonds.
Edwardian engagement ring — note the old-cut centre stone, pierced shoulders, and delicate millegrain edges.
Drop Earrings & Sautoirs
Long, elegant earrings and sautoir-style necklaces were perfect for the low necklines of Edwardian evening dress. Knife-edge bars (razor-thin metal bars) suspend diamonds and pearls so they shimmer with movement.
Edwardian diamond drop earrings — ultra-fine knife-edge bars and articulated settings create fluid movement and sparkle.
Bow Brooches & Ribbon Motifs
Bow brooches are one of the most collectible Edwardian forms. They range from simple diamond-set ribbons to elaborate multi-layered designs with hanging drops or tassels.
Edwardian diamond bow brooch — crisp platinum bow with millegrain and old-cut diamonds, typical of early 1900s court jewellery.
Bridal Sets & Parures
High-society brides often received suites of jewellery – matching tiara, necklace, brooch and earrings – executed in platinum and diamonds. Today, even a surviving pair (for example, necklace and earrings) can command a premium when kept together.
Edwardian bridal set – coordinated garland necklace, earrings and bow brooch in platinum and diamonds.
Gemstones & Metals in Edwardian Jewellery
Understanding which gemstones and metals were favoured in the Edwardian era helps you spot genuine period pieces and avoid modern reproductions.
Platinum, Gold & Silver
- Platinum: The defining Edwardian metal, usually appearing as a thin top layer over 18ct yellow gold in earlier pieces, then as all-platinum mounts by the 1910s.
- 18ct Gold: Often used for shanks and backs of settings; look for warm yellow gold visible on the underside of rings and brooches.
- Silver-topped gold: Still seen in transitional pieces from the late Victorian period, especially in continental European work.
Side profile revealing platinum over 18ct gold – a classic construction method for early Edwardian jewels.
Edwardian Gemstones
While diamonds dominate Edwardian jewellery, coloured gemstones and pearls play an important supporting role.
Key Edwardian gemstones — diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies and natural pearls are the main players in high-quality pieces.
- Diamonds: Mostly old mine and old European cuts; brilliant cuts only appear in the 1910s.
- Sapphires: Rich blue sapphires were popular for rings and cluster designs, often paired with diamonds.
- Emeralds & Rubies: Used more sparingly but highly prized, especially in French and high-end British work.
- Natural Pearls: Creamy, lustrous pearls feature heavily in garland necklaces, tiaras and drop earrings.
How to Identify Authentic Edwardian Jewellery
Distinguishing true Edwardian pieces from later reproductions requires a combination of stylistic knowledge and close inspection. Here are practical steps you can follow at home before consulting a specialist.
1. Examine Construction Under Magnification
Use a jeweller’s loupe to look at the back and sides of the piece. Genuine Edwardian jewels often show:
- Pierced galleries: Openwork patterns under the stones rather than solid backs.
- Hand-applied millegrain: Beaded edges that are crisp but not mechanically perfect.
- Mixed metals: Platinum-topped gold visible where the piece has worn naturally.
2. Look for Period-Appropriate Hallmarks
UK pieces from this era may carry platinum marks, 18ct gold hallmarks, and assay office symbols (London, Birmingham, Chester, etc.). Some platinum pieces have tiny “PT” or “PLATINUM” marks.
3. Assess Stone Cuts and Settings
Old mine and old European cut diamonds, grain-set into platinum with millegrain, are a strong indicator of Edwardian work. Modern brilliant-cut diamonds in heavy, perfectly symmetrical mounts often point to modern reproductions.
Old European cut diamond in a grain-set Edwardian mount — characteristic of genuine early 1900s engagement rings.
Edwardian vs Victorian vs Art Deco
Edwardian jewellery sits neatly between the heavier romance of Victorian pieces and the sharp geometry of Art Deco design. The comparison table below shows how they differ.
Timeline of major jewellery eras — Edwardian sits between late Victorian sentimentality and bold Art Deco modernism.
| Feature | Victorian (1837–1901) | Edwardian (1901–1915) | Art Deco (1920–1939) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Overall Look | Romantic, symbolic, often heavy gold | Light, lacy, aristocratic platinum | Bold, geometric, architectural |
| Metals | 9ct/15ct/18ct gold, silver-topped gold | Platinum over 18ct gold, all-platinum mounts | Platinum and white gold dominate |
| Gemstones | Garnets, seed pearls, turquoise, diamonds | Diamonds, sapphires, natural pearls | Diamonds, onyx, emeralds, rubies, calibré cuts |
| Motifs | Hearts, snakes, crosses, mourning symbols | Bows, garlands, laurel wreaths, flowers | Sunbursts, chevrons, stepped forms, Egyptian |
| Settings | Collet, claw and gypsy settings | Grain-set diamonds with millegrain borders | Calibré-set stones, channel and baguette settings |
Buying Tips: How to Choose Edwardian Jewellery
If you’re building an Edwardian collection or choosing a single special piece, focus on authenticity, condition and wearability.
Tip: Because Edwardian workmanship is so fine, avoid pieces with crushed filigree, lost pearls, or overpolished millegrain. It is far better to pay more for a crisp, original example than to compromise on condition.
- Prioritise original details: Look for intact bead settings, undisturbed pearls, and sharp engraving.
- Check for later alterations: Replaced shanks, modern clasps, or re-set stones can affect value.
- Buy wearable forms: Rings, drop earrings, and garland necklaces see the most use today and retain strong resale value.
- Seek expert-backed pieces: Buying from a specialist dealer like Mozeris Fine Antiques provides peace of mind on authenticity and period.
Edwardian Jewellery Highlights from the Mozeris Collection
Selling & Valuing Edwardian Jewellery
Because Edwardian jewellery is both delicate and highly sought after, valuation should be handled by specialists familiar with period construction and gemstone cutting styles.
- Condition is critical: Loss of pearls, crushed filigree or over-polished millegrain can reduce value significantly.
- Original boxes & paperwork: Any surviving cases, invoices or family documentation add to provenance and desirability.
- Matched sets: Suites and parures (necklace with matching earrings or brooch) are often worth more together than separately.
Have an Edwardian Piece to Sell?
Mozeris Fine Antiques offers specialist valuations for Edwardian jewellery, from platinum engagement rings to garland necklaces and bow brooches. We provide free, no-obligation quotes with same-day payment and insured collection across the UK.
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