A dealer's seven checks for antique, vintage and inherited jewellery: what makes a piece worth money, what does not, and when to get a proper valuation.
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Most gold, silver and platinum jewellery is worth money, at least for its metal. What lifts a piece above that:
- Marks: a hallmark or stamp such as 375, 750, 925 or PLAT confirms precious metal.
- Stones: natural, untreated, larger stones and old cuts add the most.
- Era: Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco pieces sell as antiques, not metal.
- Maker: a signature such as Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels can multiply the value.
- Condition and paperwork: original, undamaged pieces in their boxes do best.
- Costume jewellery is usually worth little unless it is by a collectable maker.
The 60-second check
- Look for a mark
Inside a ring, on a clasp or on a tag: 375, 585, 750, 916, 925, PLAT or a British hallmark means precious metal. GP, RGP, HGE or rolled gold means plate.
- Feel the weight
Gold and platinum feel heavy for their size. Light, hollow or tinny pieces are often plated.
- Look at the stones
Chips, bubbles, moulded facets or foil behind the stones suggest glass. Old cuts and closed settings suggest age.
- Check the fittings
Clasps and earring backs date a piece: see necklace clasps and earring fittings.
- Find a signature
A maker's name and serial number, usually on the clasp or inside the band, can multiply the value.
In this article
1. Marks and metal
Marks are the fastest way to separate precious metal from everything else. British gold, silver and platinum above the exemption weights must be hallmarked by an assay office; continental and older pieces often carry a stamp instead.
| Mark | Means | Worth |
|---|---|---|
| 375, 9ct | 9 carat gold, 37.5% gold | Gold value at least |
| 585, 14ct | 14 carat gold, 58.5% gold | Gold value at least |
| 750, 18ct | 18 carat gold, 75% gold | Gold value at least |
| 916, 22ct | 22 carat gold, 91.6% gold | Gold value at least |
| 925, lion passant | Sterling silver | Silver value at least |
| 950, PLAT, Pt | Platinum | Platinum value at least |
| GP, RGP, HGE, GF, rolled gold | Gold plated or gold filled | Usually little |
For the full systems see our guides to gold hallmarks, silver hallmarks and platinum hallmarks. No mark is not proof of no value: old and foreign pieces are often unmarked, so have them tested.
2. The stones
On many rings, brooches and necklaces the stones decide the value. What matters:
- Natural or not. Natural stones are worth far more than synthetic ones, and glass (paste) is worth little unless the piece is antique paste jewellery, which has its own collectors.
- Treatment. Heated sapphires and oiled emeralds are normal; untreated stones of good colour are worth more. Only a laboratory can say for certain.
- Size and quality. Value rises steeply with size, and colour and clarity matter as much.
- Old cuts. Rose, old mine and old European cut diamonds are sought after for antique pieces.
- Pearls. Natural pearls are worth many times cultured ones: see natural and cultured pearl values.
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3. The era
Period pieces sell as antiques, not as metal. Each era has tell-tale features:
| Era | Dates | Look for |
|---|---|---|
| Georgian | 1714 to 1837 | Closed-back settings, foiled stones, rose and cushion cuts, cannetille gold |
| Victorian | 1837 to 1901 | Cameos, mourning and sentimental pieces, seed pearls, snakes, lockets |
| Edwardian | 1901 to 1915 | Platinum, millegrain edges, lace-like openwork, natural pearls |
| Art Deco | 1920s and 1930s | Geometric designs, platinum, calibre-cut coloured stones |
| Retro | 1940s | Bold rose and yellow gold, large synthetic or coloured stones |
| Later 20th century | 1950s onwards | Valued mainly on metal, stones and maker |
Fittings help date a piece: our guides to necklace clasp types and earring fittings show what each one tells you.
4. The maker
A signature from a great house can be worth more than everything else put together. Look on the clasp, inside the band, on the back or on a small tag, often with a serial number.
- The great houses: Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron, Bulgari, Tiffany & Co., Chaumet, Buccellati.
- British names: Garrard, Asprey, Wartski, Kutchinsky, and modernists such as Andrew Grima and John Donald.
- Unsigned antique pieces still sell on quality, materials and period.
Signed fakes exist, and so do genuine pieces with added signatures. A signature starts the conversation; the construction, the serial number and the paperwork finish it.
See selling designer jewellery and hallmarks and makers' marks.
5. Condition
Original, undamaged pieces sell best. When we examine a piece we look at:
- Loose or missing stones, and chipped or replaced ones
- Wear: thin shanks, rubbed engraving, softened detail
- Repairs and alterations: new shanks, resizing that has cut through the hallmark, replaced clasps
- Enamel damage, which is expensive to restore
- Whether a pair or a set is complete
Do not clean, polish or repair anything before a valuation. Over-cleaning can damage enamel and stones and wear away the marks, and a repair can cost more than it adds.
6. Metal: the value underneath
For gold, silver and platinum the metal sets a floor: whatever else happens, the piece is worth at least its metal.
If it is Victorian with good stones, or signed, it is worth more; if it is plain and worn, the gold is most of its value. Our 9ct vs 18ct vs 24ct guide explains the maths.
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7. Provenance and paperwork
Documents turn a claim into evidence, and a story into value:
- Original boxes, especially from a named jeweller or a great house
- Receipts, certificates from gem laboratories, and past valuations
- Auction catalogues and records of earlier sales
- Family letters, photographs or wills that show who owned it
Bring every box and paper you have, even if they seem unimportant.
Costume or real? How to tell
Most people's first question is simply whether a piece is real. These checks sort most jewellery boxes:
GP, RGP, HGE, GF and rolled gold all mean a gold coating over base metal.
Green or black marks, or a different colour showing through, mean base metal.
Gold and silver are not magnetic. If a magnet grips the piece, it is not solid precious metal, though steel springs in clasps can fool you.
Glass stones often have bubbles, chipped facet edges or foil backing. Real stones are cold to the touch and rarely perfect.
Costume jewellery is usually worth little, but signed pieces by Chanel, Christian Dior, Miriam Haskell, Schiaparelli and Trifari have collectors. See how to tell if gold is real and platinum or white gold?
Insurance, probate or selling: which value do you need?
The same piece has different values for different purposes, and confusing them causes most disappointment.
| Valuation | What it measures | Used for |
|---|---|---|
| Insurance | What it would cost to replace new from a retailer, the highest figure | Your insurer |
| Probate | What it would fetch on the open market on the date of death | HMRC and the estate |
| Selling | What a buyer will pay you today | Deciding whether and where to sell |
An insurance figure is not a selling price. It is normal for a buyer's offer to be well below it, because the insurance figure is a retail replacement cost.
If you are dealing with an estate, see our guide to inherited jewellery.
How we value jewellery
- Look
We examine the piece under magnification: marks, construction, wear and repairs.
- Test
Unmarked metal is tested, with methods that do not damage the piece.
- Weigh
Precision scales give the metal weight and the floor value.
- Assess the stones
Natural or synthetic, treated or not, cut, size and quality.
- Research
Maker, period and comparable sales set the figure above the metal value.
Valuations for selling are free, from photographs or by appointment at our Mayfair and Braintree offices.
Send us photos for a quote
- Precious metal jewellery is always worth at least its metal: check the marks and weigh it.
- Stones, era, maker, condition and paperwork decide how far above the metal it goes.
- Do not clean, polish or repair before a valuation.
- An insurance figure is a replacement cost, not a selling price.
Questions we are asked
Is old gold jewellery worth anything?
Yes. Gold jewellery is always worth at least the value of its gold. Antique, signed or gem-set pieces are often worth more.
Is vintage jewellery worth anything?
Vintage pieces in gold, silver or platinum are worth at least their metal, and signed or well-made pieces can be worth much more. Unsigned costume jewellery is usually worth little.
How can I tell if my jewellery is real gold?
Look for a hallmark or stamp such as 375, 585, 750 or 916. GP, RGP, HGE or rolled gold mean plate. If there is no mark, a jeweller can test it without damaging it.
Is costume jewellery worth anything?
Usually not much, unless it is signed by a collectable maker such as Chanel, Christian Dior, Miriam Haskell or Trifari, or is antique paste jewellery.
Should I clean my jewellery before a valuation?
No. Cleaning and polishing can damage enamel, stones and marks. Bring pieces as they are.
Is an insurance valuation what my jewellery is worth?
No. An insurance valuation is the cost of replacing the piece new from a retailer, which is usually well above what a buyer will pay.
Where can I get antique jewellery valued in the UK?
Send us photographs for a free valuation, or book an appointment at our Mayfair or Braintree office. For insurance, ask a jeweller for a written insurance valuation.
Want a real answer for your jewellery?
Send photos of each piece, the marks and any boxes or papers. We buy antique, vintage and designer jewellery directly, and the valuation is free.
- We buy directly
- Free valuation from photos
- Appointments in Mayfair and Braintree
- Insured postage or collection
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