Part of: Van Cleef & Arpels: Collections and History
Van Cleef Perlée: A Collector Guide
Perlée is Van Cleef & Arpels’ collection of golden beads: rows of tiny polished gold spheres running round bangles, rings, earrings and pendants. The beading has edged the house’s jewels for a century; in 2008 it became a collection of its own, plain or with diamonds, coloured stones or clover motifs. This guide shows how to recognise a genuine Perlée piece and what decides its value.
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A border that became a collection
Van Cleef & Arpels has used rows of small gold beads, "perlé" work, as a finishing border since the early 20th century. In 2008 the house made the bead the subject itself: bangles and rings lined with even, polished spheres, designed to be worn alone or stacked.


Which Perlée is yours?
- Signature bangles and rings. Rows of gold beads.
- Perlée diamonds. A line of diamonds between the beads.
- Perlée Couleurs. Motifs in coloured stone or enamel.
- Clover and sweet clovers. Beaded clover motifs.
- Golds. Yellow, rose and white gold.
- 1Signature
- 2Diamonds
- 3Couleurs
- 4Clover pieces side by side
Check yours: the beads and the back
For every house we buy, see how we check designer jewellery.
- 1Signature
- 2Serial
- 3750
- 4Eagle's head
0 of 4 checked
1The signature
The signature "VCA" or "Van Cleef & Arpels", an individual serial and 750.
2French marks
The eagle’s head on pieces made in France.
3The beads
Perfectly even spheres in straight rows.
4The diamonds
Set level, matching in brightness.
Checked the beads? Send a close-up of the beads and the inside for a free, honest check.
Free, no obligation, returned at our cost if you decline.
Red flags
- Beads that are uneven, oval or merged together.
- Rows that wander or have gaps.
- A missing or shallow serial.
- Papers that do not match the piece.
Genuine
- Even round spheres
Copy
- Uneven merged beads
What is my Perlée worth?
Whether a Perlée piece holds its value comes down to the line and the piece, its width, any diamonds or coloured stones, the gold colour, its condition (flattened beads, dents), and whether you have the box and certificate. No box or certificate? We still buy it. We never publish figures.
Free, no obligation, and returned at our cost if you decline.
Read our Google reviews (opens Google)
- Line
- Width
- Diamonds or stones
- Gold
- Condition
- Papers
How selling works
- 1
Send photographs
of the piece, a close-up of the beads, the signature and serial inside, and any box or certificate.
- 2
Free value inspection
We reply within one working day with an estimate, subject to inspection. If our offer differs, you can decline and we return it at our cost.
- 3
Paid the same day after inspection
by bank transfer or in cash, in Mayfair, at our Braintree office, by post or by free collection.
Insured up to £10,000 per parcel when you send to us.
Questions people ask
Is my Van Cleef Perlée genuine?
Look inside for "VCA" or "Van Cleef & Arpels", an individual serial and 750, with the eagle’s head on French-made pieces. The gold beads should be perfectly round and even, in straight rows. No single detail proves it. Send a close-up of the beads and the inside, and we will check them, free.
What is the difference between Perlée and Alhambra?
Alhambra is built around the four-leaf clover, usually with a stone such as mother-of-pearl or onyx. Perlée is built around rows of golden beads, in plain gold or with diamonds or coloured motifs. Some Perlée pieces use a beaded clover, linking the two.
How much is a Van Cleef Perlée bangle worth?
It depends on the line, the width of the bangle, any diamonds or coloured stones, the gold colour, the condition of the beads and whether you have the box and certificate, together with current demand. We do not publish prices. Send photographs for a free value inspection within one working day.
Where can I sell VCA Perlée?
To a buyer who checks the beads, the serial and the marks in person before paying. We buy Van Cleef & Arpels directly: a free value inspection from photographs, then an appointment in Mayfair or at our Braintree office, Special Delivery post or free collection. You are paid the same day after inspection, by bank transfer or in cash.
Can I sell Perlée without the box?
Yes. A Perlée piece without its box or certificate is still bought on what it is: the serial inside identifies it, and we check the beads and any diamonds in person. A matching certificate supports the value, but its absence never stops a sale.
My Perlée beads are worn. Can I still sell it?
Yes. Beads on a bangle worn every day can soften on the top edge, and we buy pieces with wear. Please do not have them polished or re-beaded elsewhere first. Send close-ups in good light, and we will tell you how the condition affects the value.
Related guides
Selling Van Cleef Perlée?
Send a photograph of the piece and its serial for a free value inspection, with no obligation.
Free, no obligation, returned at our cost if you decline.