Designer Jewellery Authentication: How to Spot Fakes
Counterfeit Cartier, Van Cleef, Tiffany and Bvlgari are everywhere. Here's how the trade tells genuine from fake — the marks, the weight, the finish — and how to get yours checked free before you buy or sell.
Is Your Designer Piece Genuine?
Send clear photos of the signature, hallmark and serial number and we'll give you an honest opinion — and a valuation if you'd like to sell. We reply within one working day.
The big houses are the most copied jewellery on earth — and the fakes get better every year. But genuine designer jewellery is made to a standard the counterfeiters can rarely match, and it gives itself away in the same places every time: the hallmarks, the weight of the metal, the precision of the setting and the quality of the finish.
The universal tells
Hallmarks & signature
Genuine pieces are cleanly stamped with the maker's signature, metal fineness (750, 950, 925) and an assay hallmark — crisp and even, never shallow, wonky or absent.
Serial numbers
Cartier, Van Cleef and Bvlgari number their pieces. A missing, double-struck or implausible serial is a warning — though a serial alone never proves authenticity.
Weight & metal
Solid gold and platinum have real heft. Light, hollow or oddly balanced pieces, or discoloured "gold", point to plate or low-grade alloy.
Finish & setting
Crisp edges, flush stone settings, even polish and clean engraving. Casting bubbles, rough seams or loose stones signal a fake.
Beyond these, each house has its own signatures — Cartier's functional screws, Van Cleef's beaded Alhambra borders, Tiffany's certified diamonds, Bvlgari's crisp logo work. No single feature is conclusive on its own; authentication is reading them together, with the piece in hand.
What We Check
How we authenticate a designer piece:
- Marks — Signature, fineness, assay hallmark.
- Serial — Present, correctly formed, well struck.
- Metal — Weight, density, colour, testing.
- Stones — Setting, quality, any certificate.
- Finish — Edges, polish, casting, engraving.
- Design — True to the model and period.
Free, honest opinion — buying, selling or just unsure.
Get a free expert check
About to buy privately, or want to sell and prove authenticity? Send clear photos of the signature, hallmark and serial number on WhatsApp +44 7494 214652 or our valuation form. We give an honest opinion and, if genuine and you'd like to sell, a fair price with immediate payment. Brand-specific guides: spotting a fake Cartier Love, the Van Cleef Alhambra guide, and whether designer jewellery holds its value.
Get Your Designer Jewellery Authenticated
Send photographs of the signature, hallmark and serial number — we'll give you an honest, no-obligation opinion.
⚠️ Strictly by appointment only — no walk-ins. Guidance only — not a formal certification.
Frequently Asked Questions
Authenticating designer jewellery — common questions.
How can I tell if designer jewellery is real?
Check the hallmarks and maker's signature, the serial number, the weight and metal, and the precision of the setting and finish — together. No single point is conclusive; authentication reads them as a whole, ideally with the piece in hand.
Does a serial number guarantee it's genuine?
No. Fakes are often given plausible serials. A correct serial supports authenticity but must be weighed with the marks, weight, finish and design.
Is all genuine designer jewellery hallmarked?
UK-sold precious-metal jewellery above the weight thresholds is hallmarked, and the houses add their own signature and fineness mark. Clean, even stamping is the norm; crude marks are a red flag.
Can you authenticate from photos?
We can give a strong indication from clear photos of the signature, hallmark and serial. A final answer is best with the piece in hand.
I think mine might be fake — will you still look?
Yes, with no judgement and no charge. We'll tell you honestly, and if it's genuine we can make an offer.
Is this an official brand certification?
No — it's expert trade guidance to help you buy or sell safely. For formal certification, the brand itself is the authority.
Send Us Your Photographs
Attach photos of the signature, hallmark and serial number. We'll respond within one working day.