Part of: Sell your Buccellati jewellery

Buccellati Opera: A Collector Guide

Buccellati Opera frames discs and segments of stone, such as black onyx and white mother-of-pearl, in the house’s hand-engraved gold, often with a small diamond. It includes Opera Tulle, with the pierced honeycomb technique, and Opera Color, with brighter stones, as bracelets, rings, earrings and pendants. This guide shows how to recognise a genuine piece and what decides its value.

Thinking of selling Buccellati Opera?

Free, no obligation, returned at our cost if you decline.

Buccellati Opera gold bracelet with onyx and mother-of-pearl

Engraving meets colour

Opera brings Buccellati’s hand-engraving into a cleaner, more graphic design: rounded frames of engraved gold around discs and segments of stone. In Opera Tulle the gold is pierced into Buccellati’s honeycomb; in Opera Color the stones are brighter. Each frame is finished by hand, which is why no two look machine-made.

  1. 1Engraved gold border
  2. 2Stone disc
  3. 3Small diamond
  4. 4Labelled
Close-up of Buccellati Opera hand-engraved gold with onyx and mother-of-pearl
Close-up of Buccellati Opera hand-engraved gold with onyx and mother-of-pearl
Buccellati Opera gold ring with onyx and mother-of-pearl
Buccellati Opera gold ring with onyx and mother-of-pearl

Which Opera is yours?

  • Opera Tulle. Pierced honeycomb gold with onyx, mother-of-pearl or other stones.
  • Opera Color. Brighter stones in engraved gold.
  • Pieces. Bracelets, rings, earrings and pendants.
  • Stones. Onyx, mother-of-pearl and coloured stones, often with a diamond.
  1. 1Opera Tulle
  2. 2Opera Color pieces with stone swatches
Illustration of a Buccellati Opera pendant with a malachite four-lobed motif in engraved gold on a chain
Illustration: Illustration of a Buccellati Opera pendant with a malachite four-lobed motif in engraved gold on a chain

Check yours: genuine or copy

Replicas copy the look but not the hand-engraving.

For every house we buy, see how we check designer jewellery.

  1. 1Hand-engraved tulle cells
  2. 2Cast imitation
1The signature

The signature "Buccellati", cleanly engraved.

2The marks

The marks 750 and the Italian maker’s star mark.

3The engraving

Crisp, hand-finished cells, pierced right through on Tulle.

4The stones

Smooth, flush and evenly matched in every frame.

Unsure? Send a close photograph of the engraving and the signature for a free, honest check.

Free, no obligation, returned at our cost if you decline.

What is my Opera piece worth?

Whether an Opera piece holds its value comes down to the line (Tulle or Color), the piece and its size, the stones and diamonds, the gold, its condition (chipped stone, worn engraving), and whether you have the box and certificate. No box or certificate? We still buy it. We never publish figures.

Free, no obligation, and returned at our cost if you decline.

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  • Line
  • Piece
  • Stones
  • Gold
  • Condition
  • Papers

How selling works

  • 1

    Send photographs

    of the front, a close-up of the engraving, the signature and marks, and any box or certificate.

  • 2

    Free value inspection

    We reply within one working day with an estimate, subject to inspection. If our offer differs, you can decline and we return it at our cost.

  • 3

    Paid the same day after inspection

    by bank transfer or in cash, in Mayfair, at our Braintree office, by post or by free collection.

Insured up to £10,000 per parcel when you send to us.

Questions people ask

Is my Opera piece genuine?

Look for the "Buccellati" signature, 750 and the Italian maker’s star mark. Under a loupe, the engraving should be crisp and hand-finished, pierced right through on Opera Tulle, and the stones smooth and flush. Replicas copy the look, not the engraving. Send a close photograph and we will tell you honestly, free.

Can I sell Opera without the box?

Yes. An Opera piece without its box or certificate is still bought on what it is: we read the signature and marks, look closely at the engraving and check the stones. A certificate supports the value, but its absence never stops a sale.

How much is Buccellati Opera worth?

It depends on the line, the piece and its size, the stones and any diamonds, the gold, the condition of the stones and engraving, and whether you have the box and certificate. We do not publish prices. Send photographs of the piece and its marks for a free value inspection within one working day.

Where can I sell Buccellati?

To a buyer who checks the signature, marks and engraving in person before paying. We buy Buccellati directly, from Opera and Macri to older pieces: a free value inspection from photographs, then an appointment in Mayfair or at our Braintree office, Special Delivery post or free collection. You are paid the same day after inspection.

What is the difference between Opera Tulle and Opera Color?

Opera Tulle uses Buccellati’s pierced honeycomb engraving in the gold, usually with onyx or mother-of-pearl. Opera Color frames brighter coloured stones in engraved gold. Both are signed and marked the same way. Our tulle guide explains the honeycomb technique in detail.

Do you buy chipped Opera pieces?

Yes. We buy Opera pieces with chipped or scratched stones and value them on what they are. Please do not have the stones replaced elsewhere before selling, because a non-Buccellati repair can lower the value. Send photographs that show the damage clearly.

Selling Buccellati Opera?

Send a close photograph of the engraving and the signature for a free value inspection, with no obligation.

Free, no obligation, returned at our cost if you decline.