Gold Purity Explained: What 9ct, 14ct, 18ct, and 24ct really Mean

Gold purity is measured in carats, out of 24. 24 carat is pure gold; 18 carat is 18 parts gold in 24, or 75% gold, stamped 750; 14 carat is 58.5% gold, stamped 585; and 9 carat is 37.5% gold, stamped 375. The rest is other metals such as silver, copper, zinc or palladium, which make the gold harder and change its colour. In the UK the number is part of the hallmark.

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750 stamped inside a three-band rolling ring: 18KT gold, from our collection

Gold carats and hallmark numbers

  • 9 carat
    Hallmark number
    375
    Pure gold
    37.5%
    Notes
    The lowest standard that can be hallmarked as gold in the UK
  • 14 carat
    Hallmark number
    585
    Pure gold
    58.5%
    Notes
    Common in the US and Europe
  • 18 carat
    Hallmark number
    750
    Pure gold
    75%
    Notes
    The usual standard for fine jewellery and watches
  • 22 carat
    Hallmark number
    916
    Pure gold
    91.6%
    Notes
    Rich yellow; wedding rings, sovereigns, Asian gold
  • 24 carat
    Hallmark number
    999 or 990
    Pure gold
    99.9% or 99%
    Notes
    Pure gold; bullion bars and coins

So the "18 carat gold number" is 750, and 18 carat gold is 75% pure gold.

9CT and PAT. APP. FOR REGD stamped on the head of a vintage gold snake bracelet, from our collection
9CT and PAT. APP. FOR REGD stamped on the head of a vintage gold snake bracelet, from our collection
14K stamp inside a white gold ring, from our collection
14K stamp inside a white gold ring, from our collection

Carat and karat

Carat is the British spelling, karat the American, and "K" or "KT" is used in stamps such as 18K. Do not confuse it with the carat used to weigh gemstones: a 1 carat diamond has nothing to do with gold purity.

9KT gold

9 carat gold is 37.5% gold and 62.5% other metals, usually silver and copper. It is hard-wearing and the most common gold standard in British jewellery, from chains and lockets to signet rings. 9 carat became a legal standard in Britain in 1854.

14KT gold

14 carat gold is 58.5% gold. It is the most popular standard in the United States and common in continental Europe. In Britain it replaced the old 12 and 15 carat standards in 1932.

18KT gold

18 carat gold is 75% gold. It has a rich colour and is the usual standard for fine jewellery, engagement rings, designer pieces and gold watches. Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and most Swiss watchmakers use 750 gold.

22KT and 24KT gold

22 carat gold, 91.6% gold, is soft and deep yellow. It is used for wedding rings, for gold sovereigns and widely in South Asian and Middle Eastern jewellery. 24 carat gold is pure and too soft for most jewellery; it is used for bullion bars and coins.

Purity, colour and durability

  • Higher carat, softer metal. 22 and 24 carat scratch and bend more easily; 9 and 14 carat are harder.
  • Colour. The alloy decides the colour: copper for rose gold, silver for greener yellow, and palladium or nickel for white gold, which is usually rhodium plated.
  • Skin. Higher carat gold contains less of the other metals that can irritate sensitive skin.

How carats help date old gold

British gold standards changed over time, so the carat can help date a piece:

  • 22 carat has been a British standard for centuries; 18 carat from 1798.
  • 15, 12 and 9 carat were introduced in 1854.
  • 15 and 12 carat were replaced by 14 carat in 1932.

A 15 carat Victorian locket, for example, must date from between 1854 and 1932.

How to read the purity of your gold

1Look for the number

Look for the number inside rings, on clasps and on the backs of pendants: 375, 585, 750, 916 or 999.

2Look for a full UK hallmark

Look for a full UK hallmark: maker’s mark, fineness number, assay office mark and usually a date letter.

3Older British gold

Older British gold may show the carat in figures, such as 18 or 15, with a crown.

4Plating marks

Plating marks such as GP, GF or 18K GE mean plated, not solid gold.

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What makes gold jewellery valuable?

The carat and the marks come first, then the maker or designer, the age and style, any gemstones, the condition and any box or papers. We never publish figures; every piece is different.

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  • Carat and marks
  • Maker
  • Age and style
  • Gemstones
  • Condition
  • Box and papers

How selling works

  • 1

    Send photographs

    of the piece and close-ups of every mark.

  • 2

    Free value inspection

    We reply within one working day with an estimate, subject to inspection. If our offer differs, you can decline and we return it at our cost.

  • 3

    Paid the same day after inspection

    by bank transfer or in cash, in Mayfair, at our Braintree office, by post or by free collection.

Questions people ask

How much gold is in 18 carat gold?

75%. 18 carat gold is 18 parts pure gold out of 24, stamped 750.

What is the hallmark number for 18 carat gold?

750, meaning 750 parts of gold per thousand.

What does 9KT gold mean?

37.5% pure gold, stamped 375. The rest is other metals, usually silver and copper.

What is the purity of 14KT gold?

58.5% gold, stamped 585.

Is 24 carat gold pure?

Yes. 24 carat is pure gold, stamped 999 or 990.

Which is better, 9KT or 18KT gold?

They suit different uses. 18 carat has more gold and a richer colour; 9 carat is harder-wearing. Both are genuine gold when hallmarked.

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How Gold is Mined: From Extraction to Refinement

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Gold Hallmarks Explained: A comprehensive Guide to Identifying Gold