Rolex was founded in London in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis and moved to Geneva after the First World War. Antique and vintage Rolex runs from early wristwatches in British-hallmarked cases, through the waterproof Oyster of 1926 and the Perpetual rotor, to the 1950s and 1960s sports models. This guide covers the eras, how to check a vintage Rolex and what decides its value.
Thinking of selling a vintage Rolex?
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- A reply within one working day
- Paid the same day after inspection
The London years
Wilsdorf & Davis began in London in 1905, fitting Swiss movements into cases, and registered the name Rolex in 1908. Many early Rolex watches sold in Britain have cases made by Dennison and other British casemakers, with British hallmarks that date them to the year. The firm moved to Geneva in 1919.
Oyster and Perpetual
In 1926 Rolex introduced the Oyster, a sealed, waterproof case with a screw-down crown. In 1931 came the Perpetual, a self-winding rotor. Oyster Perpetual, still written on Rolex dials, joins the two. Datejust followed in 1945.
- 1905London
- 1908Rolex name
- 1919Geneva
- 1926Oyster
- 1931Perpetual
- 1945Datejust
The 1950s and 1960s
The sports models arrived in the 1950s: the Submariner, the GMT-Master and the Explorer, with the Daytona chronograph in the 1960s. Dress models such as the Precision, Oysterdate and ladies’ watches were made in steel and gold. Our own Submariner 5513 dates from 1967.
Check a vintage Rolex
See also how we check a watch in our watch guides.
- 1Lug numbers
- 2Dial
- 3Crown
0 of 5 checked
1The numbers
Reference between the lugs at twelve, serial at six.
2The dial
Original print, not repainted.
3The case
Sharp lugs, not heavily polished.
4The movement
Correct calibre for the reference.
5Hallmarks
On British-cased early watches, they date it.
Have a vintage Rolex? Send photos of the dial, the case numbers and any hallmarks for a free, honest check.
Free, no obligation, returned at our cost if you decline.
What is my vintage Rolex worth?
Whether a vintage Rolex holds its value comes down to the reference and era, the originality of the dial, hands and bezel, the condition of the case, the movement, and any box, papers or service history, judged against current demand and recent sales. A watch that does not run can still be valued. We never publish figures.
Free, no obligation, and returned at our cost if you decline.
Read our Google reviews (opens Google)
- Reference
- Dial originality
- Case condition
- Movement
- Papers
- Recent sales
How selling works
- 1
Send photographs
of the dial, the case sides, the numbers between the lugs, the case-back and any hallmarks, and any box or papers.
- 2
Free value inspection
We reply within one working day with an estimate, subject to inspection. If our offer differs, you can decline and we return it at our cost.
- 3
Paid the same day after inspection
by bank transfer or in cash, in Mayfair, at our Braintree office, by post or by free collection.
Insured up to £10,000 per parcel when you send to us.
Questions people ask
When was Rolex founded?
In 1905 in London, as Wilsdorf & Davis, by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis. The name Rolex was registered in 1908, and the firm moved to Geneva in 1919. Early Rolex watches sold in Britain often have British hallmarked cases.
How do I date a vintage Rolex?
By the serial number between the lugs at six o’clock, read with the reference at twelve. On early watches in British cases, the hallmark date letter gives the year. Send photographs of the numbers and any hallmarks, and we will date it for you.
Is my vintage Rolex genuine?
Check that the reference and serial between the lugs are crisp, that the dial print and hands are right for the reference, that the case keeps its shape, and that the movement is correct. No single detail proves it. Send photographs and we will check them, free.
Should I service a vintage Rolex before selling?
No. Please do not service, polish or replace parts first: an original dial and an unpolished case matter, and non-Rolex parts count against it. Send it as it is, and we will tell you how its condition affects the value.
How much is my vintage Rolex worth?
It depends on the reference and era, the originality of the dial and hands, the case condition, the movement and any papers, judged against current demand and recent sales. We do not publish prices. Send photographs for a free value inspection within one working day.
Where can I sell a vintage Rolex?
To a buyer who checks the numbers, dial and movement in person. We buy vintage Rolex directly: a free value inspection from photographs, then an appointment in Mayfair or at our Braintree office, post or free collection. You are paid the same day after inspection, by bank transfer or in cash.
Related guides
Have a vintage Rolex?
Send photographs of the dial and the case numbers for a free value inspection, with no obligation.
Free, no obligation, returned at our cost if you decline.
