Jean Schlumberger: The Tiffany Bird on a Rock Brooch

The Tiffany Bird on a Rock brooch was designed by Jean Schlumberger, the French jeweller who joined Tiffany & Co. in 1956 and became one of the most important designers in the house's history. The brooch — a small, diamond-set bird perched alertly on top of a single large faceted gemstone — first appeared in 1965 and remains one of the most recognised jewels Tiffany has ever produced. This guide covers Schlumberger's life and career, his years at Tiffany, his celebrated patrons, how to identify genuine pieces, and what they are worth on the UK market today.

Who was Jean Schlumberger?

Jean Schlumberger (1907–1987) was a French jewellery designer born in Mulhouse, Alsace, into a prominent textile family. He had no formal training as a jeweller. He began in 1930s Paris designing costume jewellery and buttons for the couturier Elsa Schiaparelli, where his imaginative, fantastical pieces — drawing on nature, the sea and the baroque — quickly drew attention.

After serving in the Second World War, Schlumberger established himself in New York, opening a salon with his business partner Nicolas Bongard. His work was unmistakable: exuberant, sculptural and inspired by the natural world — flowers, sea creatures, birds and shells — rendered in vivid enamel, gold and important gemstones. He was a jeweller of imagination rather than restraint, and his clientele included some of the most discerning collectors of the age.

In 1956 Tiffany & Co. brought him in-house, an arrangement of rare prestige: he was given his own atelier within Tiffany and the freedom to design as he wished. He is one of only a very small number of designers Tiffany has ever allowed to sign their own work.

Jean Schlumberger's years at Tiffany & Co.

From 1956, Schlumberger designed for Tiffany with extraordinary creative latitude. He worked with the house's finest gemstones — including, on occasion, the legendary Tiffany Diamond, which he set in his famous Bird on a Rock and Ribbon Rosette designs. His pieces were expensive, hand-made and aimed at a sophisticated collector, and they remain among the most coveted American jewels of the twentieth century.

His patrons read like a roll-call of mid-century style. Jacqueline Kennedy wore his enamel "Croisillon" bangles so often they were nicknamed "Jackie bracelets." Bunny Mellon, the great American gardener and collector, was a devoted client. Elizabeth Taylor, the Duchess of Windsor and Diana Vreeland all owned his work. Vreeland, the legendary fashion editor, called him a genius and compared him to the great Renaissance jewellers.

Schlumberger continued to be celebrated long after his death in 1987. Tiffany still produces several of his designs, and dedicated salons within its flagship stores carry his name.

Iconic pieces: Bird on a Rock, Croisillon and beyond

Several Schlumberger designs define his legacy, and a number remain in production at Tiffany:

• Bird on a Rock (1965): His signature. A small, alert bird set with diamonds, perched on top of a single large faceted gemstone — originally a great yellow diamond, and over the years citrines, aquamarines, kunzites, morganites and other important stones. The wit of a tiny creature commanding an enormous jewel is the heart of its appeal.
• Croisillon bracelets: Enamel-over-gold bangles with a banded, lattice motif, made famous by Jacqueline Kennedy. Among his most worn and recognisable designs.
• Sixteen Stone ring: A bombe-form gold ring set with sixteen gemstones in a domed arrangement — a classic Schlumberger silhouette.
• Flowers, sea life and ribbons: His wider repertoire of enamelled and gem-set flowers, jellyfish, starfish, shells and ribbon motifs, all marked by colour, movement and imagination.

How to identify a genuine Schlumberger for Tiffany piece

Schlumberger's work is valuable and collectible, so authentication is essential. Key checks include:

1. The signatures. Genuine pieces are marked "Tiffany & Co." together with "Schlumberger" (sometimes "Schlumberger Studios" or "Tiffany Schlumberger"). The signature is a key authenticity marker, as he was one of few allowed to sign.
2. Quality of workmanship. His pieces are hand-made to the highest standard, with precise gem-setting, fine enamel work and crisp gold. Crude finishing indicates a copy or a piece "in the style of."
3. Materials. Genuine pieces use fine gemstones, 18-carat gold or platinum, and high-quality enamel. The metal standard marks should be present.
4. Documented provenance. Given their value, many Schlumberger pieces have auction or sales history. Original Tiffany boxes, certificates and provenance materially support both authenticity and price.
5. Design accuracy. Compare against documented Schlumberger designs. The proportions of the Bird on a Rock, the lattice of a Croisillon and the dome of a Sixteen Stone ring are all precise.

For more on the wider collection, see our Jean Schlumberger guide.

Current market value and resale

Schlumberger is the most valuable of Tiffany's named designers, and his pieces are firmly in collector and auction territory. Values depend heavily on the gemstones, design, period and provenance, but as a general guide:

• Bird on a Rock brooches: command strong prices; a citrine, ruby and diamond example sold at Sotheby's in September 2022 for around $44,100, and exceptional gem-set examples sell for considerably more
• Croisillon enamel bangles: highly sought, with prices reflecting condition of the enamel and provenance
• Sixteen Stone rings and gem-set pieces: valued on the quality and size of the stones as well as the signature
• Pieces with celebrity or documented provenance: attract a substantial premium

For the broader question of how designer jewellery performs as an asset, see does designer jewellery hold its value? Signed, authenticated pieces with documentation always achieve the strongest results.

How to sell a Schlumberger piece in the UK

If you own a Schlumberger for Tiffany piece and are considering selling, you have two main routes: auction or a specialist dealer. Auction can suit important gem-set or documented pieces, but involves commission, delay and uncertainty. A specialist dealer offers an immediate, firm price.

At Mozeris Fine Antiques we buy Schlumberger, and other Tiffany designer pieces, outright. We authenticate, value against the live secondary market, and pay promptly — with no commission deducted. For more on choosing between routes, read selling designer jewellery: dealer vs auction. To begin, visit our sell your Tiffany jewellery page or our designer jewellery hub.

For another of Tiffany's defining designers, see our guide to Elsa Peretti, and for the house's wider history our piece on the Tiffany Setting. You may also be interested in vintage jewellery from the same era.

Frequently asked questions

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