Part of: Natural vs cultured pearls
Seed pearls are tiny natural pearls, usually less than 2 mm across. In the 1700s and 1800s jewellers drilled thousands of them and threaded them, often with horsehair or silk, onto mother-of-pearl frames to make delicate brooches, necklaces, tiaras and full sets. They were especially popular in Georgian and early Victorian jewellery and as pearl surrounds on rings and lockets. Seed pearl jewellery is collected today for its fine handwork, and its value depends on condition and completeness.
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What are seed pearls?
Seed pearls are very small pearls, generally under 2 mm in diameter. Antique seed pearls are natural pearls, formed without human help in oysters, and many came from the pearl beds of the Persian Gulf and the waters between India and Sri Lanka. Because they are so small, they were usually used in large numbers rather than one by one.
How seed pearl jewellery was made
- Drilling and threading. Each tiny pearl was drilled and threaded, traditionally on white horsehair or silk.
- Mother-of-pearl frames. The threaded pearls were stitched onto thin carved mother-of-pearl backing plates cut to the shape of the design.
- Settings in gold. Seed pearls also ring larger stones and cameos on rings, lockets and brooches, set in gold.
Seed pearls through the periods
- Georgian, about 1714 to 1837
- How seed pearls were used
- Whole parures of necklace, earrings, brooch and bracelet worked on mother-of-pearl frames
- Early Victorian
- How seed pearls were used
- Wedding and sentimental jewellery, sprays and floral brooches, mourning pieces
- Later Victorian and Edwardian
- How seed pearls were used
- Pearl surrounds on rings, lockets and brooches, with gemstones and enamel
Are seed pearls valuable?
Yes, especially in good antique jewellery. A complete Georgian seed pearl parure in its original fitted box is sought after by collectors. Single pieces are valued for their design, condition and the gold or gemstones they are set with. Loose seed pearls on their own are of modest interest; the value lies in the workmanship of the piece.
How to recognise seed pearl jewellery
0 of 4 checked
1The pearls
Tiny, slightly uneven natural pearls with a soft lustre; perfectly round, identical beads often point to imitation pearls.
2The back
Georgian and early Victorian pieces show threads stitched through a mother-of-pearl frame.
3The setting
Gold mounts, often unmarked on early pieces, and fine hand finishing.
4The condition
Broken threads, missing pearls and yellowed or cracked mother-of-pearl are common.
Have antique seed pearl jewellery? Send clear photographs of the front, the back and any box for a free, honest check.
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How to care for seed pearl jewellery
Seed pearls are soft and their threads are fragile. Keep them dry, away from perfume, hairspray and cleaning products, and store each piece flat in a soft box. Never put seed pearl jewellery in an ultrasonic cleaner. Restringing or restitching should be done by a specialist restorer.
What decides the value of seed pearl jewellery?
Completeness (a full set in its original fitted box is the most sought after), condition of the threads and pearls, the period, the design and workmanship, the gold and any gemstones, and the provenance. We never publish figures; every piece is different.
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- Completeness
- Condition
- Period
- Workmanship
- Gold and gemstones
- Original box
How selling works
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- 2
Free value inspection
We reply within one working day with an estimate, subject to inspection. If our offer differs, you can decline and we return it at our cost.
- 3
Paid the same day after inspection
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Questions people ask
What are seed pearls?
Tiny natural pearls, usually less than 2 mm across, used in large numbers in Georgian and Victorian jewellery.
Are seed pearls real pearls?
Antique seed pearls are natural pearls. Modern jewellery sometimes uses tiny cultured or imitation pearls instead.
Are seed pearls valuable?
In fine antique jewellery, yes: complete sets in their original boxes are sought after. The value lies in the workmanship and condition of the piece.
How were seed pearls attached?
They were drilled, threaded on horsehair or silk and stitched onto carved mother-of-pearl frames, or set as surrounds in gold.
How do you clean seed pearl jewellery?
Gently, with a soft dry brush or cloth. Keep it away from water and chemicals, and never use an ultrasonic cleaner.
What period is seed pearl jewellery from?
Mostly the Georgian and Victorian periods, from the 1700s to the late 1800s, with seed pearl surrounds continuing into Edwardian jewellery.
Related guides
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