Longines Watches: Collector's Value & Selling Guide (UK)
Last updated: 2025-10-21
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Quick Answer: Longines Watch Values
- Typical value ranges: HydroConquest (£400-£1,500), Conquest (£500-£1,800), Legend Diver (£1,200-£2,500), Master Collection (£1,500-£4,000), Spirit (£1,200-£2,800), Heritage models (£800-£3,500+)
- What drives price: Model and collection, movement type (mechanical vs quartz), condition and originality, case size (37mm, 38mm, 39mm, 41mm), boxes and papers, service history, limited editions
- Get a same-day UK valuation: Submit via our free evaluation form or WhatsApp — free insured FedEx collection and same-day payment if accepted
How Much is a Longines Watch Worth?
Longines watch values vary significantly depending on the model, movement type, condition, and originality. As a Swiss watchmaker with heritage dating back to 1832, Longines produces timepieces across multiple price points, from accessible quartz models to sophisticated mechanical complications.
The brand's most popular collections—HydroConquest, Conquest, Master Collection, Spirit, and Legend Diver—each occupy distinct market segments. Mechanical models typically command higher values than quartz equivalents, whilst limited editions and heritage re-issues often appreciate over time.
Popular Models at a Glance
HydroConquest
Dive WatchSpirit Collection
PilotLegend Diver
HeritageMaster Collection
DressConquest
SportsHeritage Models
VintageComprehensive Longines Value Table
Model / Collection | Condition | Typical Value Range (£) |
---|---|---|
HydroConquest 39mm (Automatic) | Good to Excellent | £600 - £1,200 |
HydroConquest 41mm (Automatic) | Good to Excellent | £700 - £1,400 |
HydroConquest GMT | Good to Excellent | £900 - £1,500 |
Spirit 37mm / 40mm | Good to Excellent | £1,200 - £2,100 |
Spirit Zulu Time (GMT) | Good to Excellent | £1,800 - £2,800 |
Legend Diver 42mm | Good to Excellent | £1,400 - £2,500 |
Master Collection Moonphase | Good to Excellent | £2,500 - £4,000 |
Conquest Heritage | Good to Excellent | £1,000 - £1,800 |
Ultra-Chron / Ultrachron | Good to Excellent | £1,500 - £2,800 |
Heritage Silver Arrow | Good to Excellent | £1,800 - £3,200 |
Note: These ranges represent typical market values and are directional guides only. Actual values depend on specific condition, originality, documentation, and current market demand.
Key Value Factors
- Movement type: Mechanical (automatic) models typically worth 30-50% more than quartz equivalents
- Case size: Popular sizes (37-41mm) command premium; vintage smaller sizes (34-36mm) appeal to collectors
- Originality: Original dial, hands, crown, and movement significantly increase value
- Documentation: Box, papers, warranty cards, and service records add 15-25% to value
- Limited editions: Numbered pieces and heritage re-issues often appreciate
Do Longines Watches Hold Value?
Longines watches generally hold moderate value, particularly mechanical models from the brand's core collections. As a member of the Swatch Group with a rich heritage dating to 1832, Longines occupies a respected position in the Swiss watchmaking hierarchy.
Collections That Hold Value Well
- Spirit collection: Modern pilot's watches with strong design and in-house movements
- Legend Diver: Heritage dive watch with vintage appeal
- Heritage re-issues: Silver Arrow, Ultra-Chron, and military-inspired models
- Master Collection: Classic dress watches with complications
- Conquest Heritage: Vintage-inspired sports watches
Factors Affecting Value Retention
- Mechanical vs quartz: Automatic movements hold value significantly better
- Condition: Unpolished cases and original parts command premium
- Boxes and papers: Complete sets worth 15-25% more
- Service history: Regular servicing maintains value
- Limited editions: Numbered pieces often appreciate
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Most Collectable Longines Models
Certain Longines models have developed strong collector followings due to their design, heritage, or limited availability. Understanding which models are most sought after can help you assess the potential value of your timepiece.
Top Tier Collectable Models
- Legend Diver (early re-issues): The 2007-2010 Legend Diver models with no-date dials are increasingly sought after by collectors. The 42mm version with box-crystal and vintage aesthetic commands premium prices.
- Ultra-Chron / Ultrachron: High-frequency movement (36,000 vph) from the 1960s-70s; both vintage originals and modern re-issues are collectable. The distinctive cushion case and sector dial variants are particularly desirable.
- Conquest Heritage: Vintage-inspired sports watches that bridge classic and modern design. The 38mm and 39mm sizes appeal to collectors seeking wearable vintage aesthetics.
- Spirit Zulu Time: Modern GMT complication with pilot's watch heritage. The titanium version and limited editions are especially sought after.
- Heritage Silver Arrow: Re-issue of the 1956 chronograph worn by racing drivers. Limited production and vintage appeal make it highly collectable.
- Vintage sector dial models: 1930s-1950s Longines watches with sector dials, particularly those with original movements and unrestored dials, command strong prices.
Emerging Collectable Models
- Master Collection Moonphase: Classic dress watch with astronomical complication; well-regarded for finishing and value
- Avigation BigEye: Pilot's chronograph with distinctive dial layout and vintage-inspired design
- Heritage Classic: Dress watches with sector dials and broad arrow hands referencing 1940s military timepieces
- Heritage Military: Field watch aesthetic with modern reliability; appeals to military watch collectors
- Flagship Heritage: Elegant dress watch with vintage proportions and refined finishing
- Presence / Evidenza: Distinctive tonneau-shaped cases; less common and gaining collector interest
What Makes a Longines Collectable?
The most collectable Longines watches typically share these characteristics:
- Heritage design referencing historical models from the brand's archives
- Mechanical movements, particularly in-house calibres or high-frequency movements
- Limited production numbers or special editions
- Original, unrestored condition with matching parts
- Complete documentation including boxes, papers, and service records
- Distinctive design elements like sector dials, broad arrow hands, or cushion cases
How to Identify & Date a Longines
Identifying and dating a Longines watch requires examining several key elements: reference numbers, serial numbers, movement calibres, and design characteristics. Longines maintains comprehensive archives that can provide production dates for most watches.
Reference Numbers
Modern Longines watches use reference numbers that encode collection and specifications:
- Format: Typically L3.XXX.X.XX.X or similar alphanumeric codes
- Location: Found on case back, warranty card, or between lugs
- Information: Indicates collection, case size, material, dial colour, and bracelet type
Serial Numbers
Serial numbers help date production:
- Vintage watches: Serial on movement and case back
- Modern watches: Serial on case back or between lugs at 6 o'clock
- Dating: Longines archives can provide production date from serial number
Movement Identification
Longines uses various movement types:
- L-calibres: Modern in-house and modified ETA movements (L888, L619, L633, etc.)
- Vintage calibres: Historical movements like 30L, 12.68Z, 13ZN (chronographs)
- High-frequency: Ultra-Chron movements running at 36,000 vph
- Quartz: VHP (Very High Precision) and standard quartz movements
Design Characteristics
Visual clues for identification:
- Sector dials: Concentric circles dividing dial into sections (1930s-1950s)
- Broad arrow hands: Military-inspired hand design on heritage models
- Winged hourglass logo: Longines' iconic emblem on dial
- Case shapes: Round, cushion, tonneau (Evidenza), rectangular (DolceVita)
Dating Vintage Longines Watches
For vintage and antique Longines watches, dating requires cross-referencing multiple elements:
- Movement serial: The most reliable dating method; Longines archives can provide exact production dates
- Case style: Design elements reflect production era (Art Deco 1920s-30s, military 1940s, dress 1950s-60s)
- Dial printing: Font styles, logo variations, and text placement changed over decades
- Crown design: Vintage crowns often feature the winged hourglass logo
- Case material: Gold-filled cases common in 1940s-60s; stainless steel became standard later
For accurate dating and authentication, consider contacting Longines directly through their Extract from the Archives service, which provides official documentation of production details.
Used & Pre-Owned Longines: What's Worth Buying/Selling?
The pre-owned Longines market offers excellent opportunities for both buyers and sellers. Understanding which models offer the best value and liquidity can help you make informed decisions.
Diver & Tool Watches
Sports watches designed for active use:
- HydroConquest: Excellent value proposition in the pre-owned market. The 39mm and 41mm automatic versions are particularly popular. GMT models command premium. Quartz versions offer entry-level pricing but lower resale value.
- Legend Diver: Strong collector following, especially for 42mm models with box-crystal. The 36mm version appeals to those seeking vintage proportions. Early no-date versions increasingly sought after.
- Conquest: Versatile sports watch available in multiple sizes (38mm, 39mm). The Conquest Heritage with vintage-inspired design holds value well. VHP quartz models offer precision but lower resale.
Pilot & Field Watches
Aviation-inspired timepieces:
- Spirit collection: Modern pilot's watches with strong design language. The 37mm and 40mm sizes suit different wrist sizes. Spirit Zulu Time (GMT) particularly desirable for travellers and collectors.
- Spirit Chronograph: Bi-compax layout with pilot's watch aesthetic; good value in pre-owned market
- Spirit Titanium: Lightweight alternative with premium material; holds value well
- Avigation BigEye: Distinctive chronograph with vintage aviation heritage; limited production supports value
- Heritage Military: Field watch aesthetic with modern reliability; appeals to military watch enthusiasts
Dress & Classic Watches
Elegant timepieces for formal occasions:
- Master Collection: Classic dress watches with excellent finishing. Three-hand models offer entry point; moonphase complications command premium. Complete sets with boxes and papers essential for value retention.
- Flagship / Flagship Heritage: Refined dress watches with vintage proportions. Heritage models with sector dials particularly appealing to collectors.
- DolceVita: Distinctive rectangular case; available in men's and ladies' sizes. Gold models and limited editions hold value better than standard steel versions.
- La Grande Classique: Ultra-thin dress watches; affordable entry to Longines. Quartz movements keep prices accessible but limit appreciation potential.
- Presence / Evidenza: Tonneau-shaped cases offer distinctive alternative to round watches. Less common in market, which can affect liquidity.
Pre-Owned Buying Tips
- Prioritise mechanical (automatic) over quartz for value retention
- Verify authenticity through serial numbers and movement inspection
- Check service history; recent servicing adds value and reliability
- Complete sets (box, papers, warranty) worth 15-25% premium
- Unpolished cases with sharp edges more desirable to collectors
- Popular sizes (37-41mm) offer better liquidity when selling
Which Longines Holds Value Best?
If value retention is your primary concern, certain Longines models consistently outperform others in the pre-owned market. These watches combine strong design, mechanical movements, and collector appeal.
Top Value-Holding Models
1. Spirit Zulu Time
The Spirit Zulu Time (GMT) combines practical functionality with pilot's watch heritage. The in-house movement, distinctive design, and travel complication make it highly desirable. Titanium versions command additional premium.
Why it holds value: Strong brand positioning, practical GMT function, modern in-house movement, distinctive aesthetic
2. Legend Diver (Early Re-issues)
The Legend Diver, particularly early 2007-2010 models with no-date dials, has developed a strong collector following. The vintage-inspired design and box-crystal create distinctive character.
Why it holds value: Heritage appeal, limited early production, vintage aesthetics, strong collector community
3. Conquest Heritage
The Conquest Heritage bridges vintage and modern design, appealing to collectors seeking wearable classic sports watches. The 38mm and 39mm sizes suit contemporary tastes whilst maintaining vintage proportions.
Why it holds value: Versatile design, popular sizing, mechanical movement, vintage-inspired aesthetic
4. Ultra-Chron
Both vintage Ultra-Chron watches from the 1960s-70s and modern re-issues hold value well. The high-frequency movement (36,000 vph) and distinctive cushion case create strong collector appeal.
Why it holds value: Technical innovation, distinctive design, limited production, historical significance
5. Master Collection Moonphase
The Master Collection with moonphase complication offers classic dress watch elegance with astronomical functionality. Well-regarded for finishing quality and value proposition in the complications segment.
Why it holds value: Complication adds interest, classic design, excellent finishing, complete sets highly sought
6. Heritage Silver Arrow
Re-issue of the 1956 chronograph with racing heritage. Limited production and vintage appeal make it increasingly collectable. The distinctive dial layout and historical connection support value.
Why it holds value: Limited production, racing heritage, chronograph complication, vintage design
Factors That Maximise Value Retention
- Mechanical movements: Automatic watches hold 30-50% more value than quartz equivalents
- Complete documentation: Box, papers, warranty cards, and service records add 15-25% to value
- Original condition: Unpolished cases, original parts, and minimal modifications preserve value
- Popular sizes: 37-41mm cases suit modern preferences and offer better liquidity
- Limited editions: Numbered pieces and special releases often appreciate over time
- Heritage design: Models referencing historical Longines watches appeal to collectors
- Complications: GMT, chronograph, and moonphase functions add interest and value
Whilst no watch purchase should be viewed purely as an investment, selecting models with strong collector appeal, mechanical movements, and complete documentation will maximise your chances of value retention over time.
How to Get a Longines Valuation (UK)
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