Garrard & Co: The Story Behind Britain's Oldest Jeweller
The Story of Garrard & Co
Garrard & Co. isn't just old - it's Britain's oldest jewellery house, full stop. George Wickes set up shop in 1735, and nearly three centuries later, the name still carries serious weight. They've made everything from the Crown of Queen Mary to Princess Diana's famous sapphire engagement ring. Here's how a small London workshop became the go-to jeweller for British royalty.
How It All Started
George Wickes opened his doors on Panton Street in 1735. London was full of silversmiths back then, but Wickes had something others didn't - an obsession with getting every detail right. Word spread quickly. Within a few years, aristocrats were queuing up for his work.
The business changed hands a few times over the decades. Robert Garrard took over in 1802, and his family name stuck. By this point, they weren't just making nice things for rich people - they were building a reputation that would last centuries.
The Royal Appointment
In 1843, Queen Victoria made it official: Garrard became Crown Jeweller. This wasn't just a fancy title. It meant they were responsible for looking after - and occasionally adding to - the Crown Jewels themselves.
They held that role for over 150 years. During that time, they created and maintained some of the most valuable objects on Earth. The Koh-i-Noor diamond? Garrard set it into the Queen Mother's crown. The Crown of Queen Mary, with its 2,000+ diamonds? That was them too.
"When you hold a piece of Garrard jewellery, you're holding something connected to nearly 300 years of British history. That's not marketing - it's just fact."- Antique Jewellery Expert
Key Moments in Garrard's History
George Wickes Opens Shop
The workshop on Panton Street begins taking commissions from London's wealthy elite.
Robert Garrard Takes Over
The Garrard family assumes control, giving the company the name it still carries today.
Appointed Crown Jeweller
Queen Victoria grants the royal warrant, beginning a 164-year relationship with the Crown.
Crown of Queen Mary Created
Garrard crafts the crown for Queen Mary's coronation, featuring over 2,000 diamonds.
Diana's Engagement Ring
The famous sapphire and diamond ring - later worn by Kate Middleton - comes from Garrard's collection.
Acquired by Kering
Luxury group Kering purchases Garrard, investing in new collections while preserving the heritage.
The Crown Jewels Connection
Being Crown Jeweller meant Garrard had their hands on the most important pieces in British history. They didn't just store them - they maintained, repaired, and sometimes completely redesigned them.
The Koh-i-Noor diamond, one of the largest cut diamonds in the world, was set and reset by Garrard craftsmen multiple times as it moved between different crowns.
290
Years in business
164
Years as Crown Jeweller
2,000+
Diamonds in Queen Mary's Crown
Diana's Ring - A Modern Icon
In 1981, Lady Diana Spencer chose her engagement ring from Garrard's existing collection - unusual for a royal, who typically had bespoke pieces made. The 12-carat oval sapphire surrounded by 14 diamonds became instantly iconic.
When Prince William gave the same ring to Kate Middleton in 2010, it sparked renewed interest in Garrard's work. Suddenly, a piece of 1980s jewellery was front-page news again.
Garrard Today
The company lost its Crown Jeweller title in 2007 - the role went to a different firm. But that hasn't stopped Garrard from thriving. Under Kering's ownership since 2018, they've launched new collections while keeping their signature style intact.
Their pieces still command serious money at auction. Vintage Garrard items, particularly those from the Victorian and Edwardian eras, are highly sought after by collectors. The craftsmanship hasn't changed much - modern Garrard jewellery is still made with the same attention to detail that impressed Queen Victoria nearly 200 years ago.
Why Garrard Jewellery Holds Its Value
Three things make Garrard pieces valuable on the secondary market: provenance, craftsmanship, and rarity. The royal connection doesn't hurt either - owning something from the same house that made Crown Jewels carries a certain cachet.
Victorian-era Garrard pieces are particularly collectible. The combination of historical significance and exceptional quality means they often sell for multiples of their metal and stone value alone. Even more recent pieces from the 20th century attract premium prices.
If you own Garrard jewellery - whether inherited, purchased, or gifted - it's worth understanding what you have. The hallmarks, the era, and the specific collection all affect value. Many people are surprised to learn just how much their pieces are worth.
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