Guide to Georgian Jewellery (1714–1837)
Guide to Georgian Jewellery: Dating, Identifying and Valuing Britain's Most Refined Period (1714–1837)
Quick Answer
Georgian jewellery refers to pieces made during the Georgian era in Britain, from 1714 to 1837 — spanning the reigns of Kings George I–IV and the Regency. It is defined by hand-crafted construction, rose-cut and old mine-cut diamonds, silver-topped gold settings, closed-back collets, naturalistic motifs (flowers, ribbons, bows), and the use of paste, enamel and high-carat gold. Georgian jewellery is among the rarest and most valuable antique jewellery in the UK; authentic pieces command strong premiums and require expert authentication.
Key Takeaways
- The Georgian period (1714–1837) produced entirely hand-crafted jewellery with no machine manufacturing — every piece shows slight irregularities that help with dating
- Three distinct features of Georgian style are: silver-topped gold settings (to make diamonds sparkle), closed-back collet settings (often foil-backed), and rose-cut or old mine-cut diamonds
- Georgian gold was typically 18ct or higher (22ct was common); UK hallmarking for gold was not compulsory until the Victorian era, so some early pieces may lack date letters
- Mourning jewellery and memento mori (skulls, urns, hairwork) were highly fashionable; Georgian paste jewellery allowed the middle classes to wear diamond-like sparkle at a fraction of the cost
- Authentic Georgian pieces can be identified by construction (hand-forging, hand-applied solder), stone cuts, clasp types (C-clasps, hook-and-eye), and period-appropriate materials
- Values range from around £500 for simple Georgian paste or small items to £50,000+ for exceptional signed or royal-provenance pieces
Table of Contents
- What Is Georgian Jewellery?
- Georgian Jewellery Dating: Early, Mid, Late and Regency
- Distinctive Characteristics of Georgian Jewellery
- Types of Georgian Jewellery
- Materials and Techniques
- Georgian Mourning Jewellery and Memento Mori
- How to Identify Authentic Georgian Jewellery
- Is Georgian Jewellery Valuable?
- How to Clean and Care for Georgian Jewellery
- Where to Buy and Sell Georgian Jewellery in the UK
- Georgian vs Victorian vs Edwardian Jewellery
- Frequently Asked Questions
What Is Georgian Jewellery?
Georgian jewellery is any piece made during the Georgian era in Great Britain, from the accession of George I in 1714 to the death of William IV in 1837 — a span of 123 years covering four King Georges and the Regency. This period is one of the most refined and technically accomplished in British jewellery history, yet also one of the rarest to find on the market today. Unlike later eras, every Georgian piece was made entirely by hand: there was no machine stamping, no factory production, and no electroplating. The result is jewellery that was designed to be seen by candlelight, with soft sparkle, delicate metalwork, and a level of craftsmanship that commands strong collector demand.
Understanding Georgian jewellery is essential for anyone collecting antique jewellery, valuing inherited pieces, or looking to buy or sell period pieces. This guide covers dating, identification, materials, and how to tell genuine Georgian pieces from later reproductions or Georgian-style modern jewellery.
Georgian Jewellery Dating: Early, Mid, Late and Regency
Subdividing the Georgian period helps narrow down when a piece was likely made. Jewellery styles evolved with fashion, politics, and available technology. Use the table below alongside hallmarks (where present) and construction details to date your piece.
| Period | Date Range | Key Features | Materials & Cuts |
|---|---|---|---|
| Early Georgian | 1714–1760 | Baroque influence, symmetrical designs, girandole earrings, cluster rings, high relief | High-carat gold (18ct–22ct), rose-cut diamonds, foil-backed closed settings, table-cut stones |
| Mid Georgian | 1760–1790 | Neoclassical motifs (urns, laurel, classical figures), navette and marquise shapes, ribbon and bow motifs | Silver-topped gold standard, paste widely used, enamelled lockets, seed pearls |
| Late Georgian | 1790–1830 | Lighter, more delicate designs; sentimental and mourning jewellery peak; cannetille and filigree | Old mine cut appears; hairwork; black enamel mourning; pinchbeck for less expensive pieces |
| Regency | 1811–1820 (often extended to c.1830) | Refined neoclassical style, archaeological revival, parures, rivière necklaces | 18ct gold standard, old mine and early brilliant cuts, cameos, micromosaic |
Georgian jewellery sub-periods — use style and materials to narrow dating
Distinctive Characteristics of Georgian Jewellery
Three Distinct Features of the Georgian Style
Experts and collectors often summarise Georgian jewellery by three hallmarks:
- Silver-topped gold: Settings were made in gold for strength, then the bezels or collets were topped with a layer of silver so that diamonds (which can look yellowish against yellow gold) appeared whiter and brighter by candlelight.
- Closed-back collet settings: Stones were set in closed-back mounts, often with foil (silver or coloured) behind them to enhance brilliance and colour. Open-back settings became more common from the Victorian period onward.
- Rose-cut and old mine-cut diamonds: The rose cut (flat base, domed top with triangular facets) and the old mine cut (early form of brilliant with a small table and high crown) dominated. Modern brilliant cuts did not appear until the late 19th century.
Other defining traits include hand-forged construction (visible tool marks, slight asymmetry), naturalistic motifs such as flowers, leaves, bows, and ribbons, and the use of cannetille — fine twisted gold wire forming delicate scrolls — in the late Georgian period. Girandole earrings (central drop with two smaller drops), cluster and navette rings, and collet-set necklaces (rivières) are among the most recognisable Georgian forms.
Georgian rose-cut diamond in silver-topped gold closed-back collet
Types of Georgian Jewellery
Georgian rings, brooches, necklaces, earrings, and lockets each have period-typical forms. Knowing these helps with identification and valuation.
Rings
Cluster rings (multiple stones in a floral or geometric cluster), navette or marquise-shaped rings, giardinetti rings (flower-basket motif with stones as blooms), memorial and mourning rings (black enamel, hair, or miniature), and signet rings were all worn. Posy rings (inscribed verse inside the band) and fede (clasped hands) rings carried romantic meaning. Georgian ring shanks were often narrow and hand-made; heavy resizing can damage or remove hallmarks.
Georgian ring styles — cluster, navette, giardinetti and mourning
Brooches
Georgian brooches included bow brooches, floral sprays, memorial and mourning brooches (with hair, enamel, or miniature painting), and later cannetille and filigree designs. Many were worn at the throat or on the bodice. C-clasps (simple hook without safety catch) are typical; later safety catches suggest Victorian or later alteration.
Necklaces and Collet Necklaces
Rivière necklaces (graduated stones in collet settings), collet necklaces (uniform or graduated gemstones or paste in closed collets), and festoon or chain necklaces with pendants were fashionable. The Georgian collet necklace has seen a revival in modern fashion and remains highly collectible.
Earrings
Girandole earrings (three drops from a central motif), pendeloque drops, and smaller stud or cluster earrings were worn. Earrings were often designed for pierced ears; clip-backs and screw-backs are later innovations.
Georgian girandole earrings — three-drop design
Lockets and Pendants
Lockets held hair, miniature paintings, or memorial inscriptions. Enamelled lockets with floral or sentimental motifs are characteristic of the mid to late Georgian period.
Georgian brooches and collet necklaces
Materials and Techniques
Georgian jewellers used high-carat gold (18ct, 22ct), silver, pinchbeck (copper-zinc alloy resembling gold), paste (lead glass cut like gemstones), enamel, hair, and natural gemstones including diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, garnets, and pearls. What carat is Georgian gold? Typically 18ct or higher; 22ct was common for high-end pieces. UK gold hallmarking was not compulsory for small items until the 20th century, so some Georgian gold may carry no marks or only a maker's mark. For more on hallmarking, see our gold hallmarks guide.
Georgian paste jewellery was made from high-quality glass (paste) cut and foiled to imitate diamonds and coloured stones. The finest paste is hard to distinguish from real gems and is highly collectible. Enamel work — especially white on blue, or black for mourning — reached a high level of sophistication. Repoussé and chasing (hammered and chased metal) were used for decorative detail.
Georgian materials — paste, enamel, high-carat gold
Georgian Mourning Jewellery and Memento Mori
Georgian mourning jewellery was worn to commemorate the dead and reflected the era's acceptance of death as part of life. Unlike the more sentimental Victorian mourning pieces, Georgian memento mori often included stark symbols: skulls, skeletons, coffins, urns, and weeping willows. Black enamel, jet, and black onyx were used alongside gold; hair from the deceased was woven or placed under crystal in rings, brooches, and lockets. Memorial rings might be inscribed with the name and date of death and given to mourners at funerals. Georgian mourning jewellery is one of the most sought-after categories for collectors; condition and intact hairwork significantly affect value.
Georgian mourning jewellery — memorial ring, hairwork, black enamel
Own Georgian Jewellery?
If you own Georgian rings, brooches, necklaces, or mourning jewellery, our specialists provide free, no-obligation valuations with same-day payment available.
Get Your Free ValuationHow to Identify Authentic Georgian Jewellery
Identifying genuine Georgian jewellery requires careful examination of construction, settings, stone cuts, and materials. Use this checklist — and when in doubt, seek a professional opinion.
Georgian Jewellery Identification Checklist
- Construction: Look for hand-forging: slight asymmetry, visible solder joins, and irregularity in metal thickness. Machine-made uniformity indicates a later period or reproduction.
- Stone settings: Closed-back collets (often with foil behind the stone) are typical. Open-back claw settings are rare before the late Victorian/Edwardian era.
- Stone cuts: Rose-cut and old mine-cut diamonds are pre-Victorian. Old European cut appears from the 1870s; modern brilliant cut indicates 20th century or re-set stone.
- Silver-topped gold: Check whether the setting has a silver-coloured inner bezel or collet (may have worn or oxidised). This technique was used to make diamonds look whiter.
- Clasps: C-clasps (hook without safety catch) on brooches and necklaces are typical of Georgian and early Victorian. Trombone or safety clasps suggest later addition or era.
- Hallmarks: UK gold and silver items may carry assay office, date letter, and maker's mark. Date letters can pinpoint the year — consult a hallmark guide. Note: small items were often not hallmarked in the Georgian period.
- How to tell if jewellery is actually vintage: Age-appropriate wear (soft patina on gold, slight wear on high points), period-appropriate design and materials, and consistency between components (e.g. all parts show similar wear).
Important: Many Georgian pieces have been altered — re-sized, re-backed, or re-set — over the centuries. Professional assessment is recommended for authentication and valuation. Contact our specialists for expert guidance.
Professional authentication — hallmarks, construction and stone cuts
Is Georgian Jewellery Valuable?
Yes. Georgian jewellery is among the most valuable and collectible antique jewellery in the UK. Rarity (survival rate is low), hand craftsmanship, and strong demand from collectors support prices well above melt value. How to tell if old jewellery is valuable: Consider metal purity and weight, quality and cut of gemstones, condition, rarity of type, and provenance. For a full framework see our guide on how to value antique jewellery.
Value Drivers for Georgian Jewellery
| Factor | Impact on Value |
|---|---|
| Metal (gold purity) | 18ct–22ct gold commands a premium; hallmark verification supports value |
| Stone type and cut | Natural diamonds (rose cut, old mine) and coloured gemstones in period cuts add significant value |
| Condition | Original backs, intact enamel, no major repairs or replacement parts preserve full value |
| Rarity | Unusual forms (girandole earrings, complete parures, fine mourning pieces) command strong premiums |
| Provenance | Documented history, original boxes, or notable ownership can add 20–50% |
Typical price ranges: Simple Georgian paste or small gold items: from around £500. Quality 18ct Georgian rings with diamonds or coloured stones: £2,000–£15,000+. Exceptional or signed pieces, parures, or royal provenance: £20,000–£50,000+. Check live gold prices for baseline melt value; period pieces are almost always worth more than scrap. If you are considering selling gold jewellery, use our gold price calculator for current metal value.
How to Clean and Care for Georgian Jewellery
Georgian jewellery has survived 190–300+ years and is often fragile. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners, chemical dips, and steam — they can damage foil backings, enamel, and soft solder. For gold without enamel: lukewarm water, mild soap, very soft brush, then pat dry. For pieces with enamel, paste, or hair: wipe with a dry soft cloth only. Store separately in a dry place away from direct sunlight. For detailed advice see our care guidance and consider professional cleaning for valuable pieces.
Where to Buy and Sell Georgian Jewellery in the UK
Buying: Specialist antique jewellery dealers and reputable auction houses (e.g. Bonhams, Christie's) are the safest sources for authenticated Georgian jewellery. At Mozeris Fine Antiques, our Georgian jewellery collection is described by period, materials, and condition. Always verify hallmarks and ask about any restoration or replacement parts.
Selling: We buy Georgian rings, brooches, necklaces, mourning jewellery, and paste pieces. Free, no-obligation valuations are available in person at Braintree, via our online valuation form, or by insured post. Avoid high-street "cash for gold" outlets, which typically pay only scrap value and do not recognise the premium for period craftsmanship.
Explore Our Georgian Jewellery Collection
Browse authenticated Georgian rings, brooches, necklaces and earrings. Every piece described by our specialists.
Browse Georgian Jewellery Shop Antique RingsGeorgian vs Victorian vs Edwardian Jewellery
Knowing how Georgian differs from later eras helps with dating and identification.
| Feature | Georgian (1714–1837) | Victorian (1837–1901) | Edwardian (1901–1915) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Construction | Entirely hand-crafted | Hand-crafted to machine-assisted | Refined hand-crafting, platinum |
| Primary metals | 18ct–22ct gold, silver, pinchbeck | 9ct & 18ct gold, silver, jet | Platinum, white gold, 18ct yellow |
| Diamond cuts | Rose cut, table cut, old mine | Old mine, rose, old European | Old European, early brilliant |
| Settings | Closed-back collet, foil-backed, silver-topped gold | Gypsy, rubover, collet; open-back later | Millegrain, open claw |
| Motifs | Naturalistic, bows, ribbons, memento mori | Snakes, hearts, mourning, cameos | Garland, lace, bow |
Browse by era: Georgian jewellery, Victorian jewellery, Edwardian jewellery.
Georgian vs Victorian — construction and style differences
Frequently Asked Questions About Georgian Jewellery
What is Georgian jewellery?
How to identify Georgian jewellery?
What is the traditional jewellery of Georgia (country)?
Is Georgian jewellery valuable?
How to tell if old jewellery is valuable?
What are three distinct features of the Georgian style?
Is my house Georgian or Victorian?
How to tell if jewellery is actually vintage?
What carat is Georgian gold?
Is the vinegar test for gold accurate?
Where can I buy authentic Georgian jewellery in the UK?
Where can I sell Georgian jewellery?
